Here we go friends! Let’s get started on our Cottesloe swimsuits! Today is all about View B – the high back one piece. This is a pretty simple construction – just sewing the seams and adding the gusset. So I will also go over the optional step of fully lining your suit, as well!
This is easy peasy, and you’ll get through these steps in no time. So let’s get to it!
Place the Front and Back pieces together with right sides together.
Line up the shoulder seams and side seams and pin in place.
Place the Gusset piece right side down on the Back (so you’re looking at the wrong side of the fabric of both pieces).
Your Gusset can be cut out of your self-fabric or swimsuit lining fabric.
Only attach the Gusset if you are keeping your suit unlined. Don’t attach if lining your suit.
Line up the crotch seam of the Gusset, Front, and Back and pin in place. Through all three layers.
Sew along the shoulder seams, side seams, and crotch seam 1/4″ from the raw edges using a zig-zag stitch or overlock/serger.
Turn your swimsuit over so the Front is facing you (still wrong side facing out), and flip the Gusset down.
Flip the Gusset up towards the Front, covering the front crotch, and so the right side of the Gusset is now facing you.
Pin the Gusset to the Front along the leg openings to keep it in place until it’s time to attach the elastic (you could also Zig Zag stitch along the very edge to hold it in place, alternatively). We will go over the elastic in a different post!
OPTIONAL – FULL LINING
Adding a full lining to your one piece suit is optional. You can choose to keep it unlined, with just the Gusset at the crotch, or you can fully line it with swimsuit lining fabric. Here’s how to add the full lining:
If you are fully lining your suit, do not add the Gusset piece. Instead just sew your crotch seam together through the Front and Back only, 1/4″ from the raw edge.
Cut your Front and Back pattern pieces out of swimsuit lining fabric.
Just like with the main fabric of your suit, place the Front and Back together with right sides together. Line up and pin together at the shoulder seams, side seams, and crotch seam.
Sew together at all those seams 1/4″ from the raw edges using a zig-zag stitch or overlock/serger.
Turn your swimsuit inside out.
And turn your lining right side out.
Place the swimsuit inside the lining, so the wrong sides of the fabrics will be together.
Pin the swimsuit and lining together at the neckline, arm openings,and leg openings.
This will now be treated as one piece of fabric when attaching the elastic. You can choose to stop here and move on to the elastic steps (post coming soon!), or…
You can choose to overlock/serge (or zig zag right along the raw edge) around all of the openings to make it easier to keep the two pieces of fabric together.
That’s it! Time to add elastic. Look out for that post soon!
// LOOKING FOR MORE COTTESLOE POSTS? //
Here’s the full list of Cottesloe posts and tutorials:
- Pattern Tester Round-up
- Inspiration + Ideas
- Where to Find Swimsuit Fabric
- View B Full Suit Construction (+ Optional Lining) (this post!)
- View A Full Suit Construction with Shelf Bra and Ties
- Views C & D Bikini Construction
- Basic Elastic Insertion for All Views
- Waistband and Underband Elastic Insertion for Views C & D
Don’t have the Cottesloe sewing pattern yet?! Order Cottesloe today! We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNcottesloe and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!