Who is excited to get started on the construction of their Wattle skirts? First things first – we’re going to attach those pockets! The crossover pocket opening is seriously probably the coolest feature of the Wattle skirt (and Flint pants!), and it is what allows you to step into your skirt through an opening, and skip any tricky zipper or placket closure.
These pocket steps apply to all versions, but I’ll be demonstrating here on view A (bias cut). Because of this, my front is in two pieces. But if your are making views B (pleats) or C (gathers), your front piece will be all one piece. No matter – construction is exactly the same!
Also, one side note – If you are making a pleated version, you may find it easier to wait to add the pockets until after you’ve done your pleats. Or you can still do them first, if you prefer!
Ok, let’s jump right in and get started…
To start, finish the curved edges of all four pocket pieces separately – the two pockets [3 or 9] and the two pocket bags [4 or 10]. You can use your preferred method – serger/overlock, zig zag stitch, binding, pinking shears, etc.
This is optional, but you can choose to attach a strip of fusible interfacing along the pocket opening edge on the wrong side of the Pocket Bag [4 or 10] to prevent the pocket opening stretching out during use.
Place the Pocket Bag [4 or 10] on the Front with right sides together (depending on which version you are making, the front may be one piece, or two). Line up the pocket opening edges.
Pin them in place.
Sew 5/8” along the pocket opening for each side.
Press the pocket bag and seams outwards away from the skirt front. Understitch close to the seamline on the pocket (not the skirt front). So you’ll be stitching through the pocket and the seam allowance. This will prevent your pocket bag from rolling towards the outside and showing during wear.
Repeat for the other side.
Place the Pocket [3 or 9] on top of the Pocket Lining [4 or 10] with right sides together and so that the curved edges match up and the notches line up, and pin in place.
On the left pocket only sew 5/8” from the raw edge around the curved edge, starting at the bottom, and stopping at the notch indicated on the pattern piece. Then pivot towards the seam allowance, sew and then backstitch to reinforce. Sew only the Pocket Lining and Pocket together, not through tthe skirt front. The top half of the pocket will be left open. This opening created in the left pocket will be the entry into the skirt!
Note: After pivoting at the notch, you may choose to add a bartack for greater reinforcement. This edge will take a lot of strain when you take your skirt on and off.
On the right pocket only sew 5/8” from the raw edge around the entire pocket outer edge. Sew only the Pocket Bag and Pocket together, not through the skirt front.
Flip your pockets towards the wrong side of the fabric and press well, ensuring that the edges of the pocket bag opening line up with the notches on the pocket.
Now turn around to the right side of the fabric.
On the right side only, baste both the Pocket Bag and Pocket in place along the side seam and waistline seam, ½” from the raw edge.
On the left side, baste ONLY the Pocket Bag to the waistline seam ½” ( from the raw edge, and leave the left Pocket loose at the waistline.
Then baste both the Pocket Bag and Pocket to the side seam.
Your pockets are ready and you can continue on with the rest of your skirt!
LOOKING FOR MORE WATTLE POSTS?
Here’s the full list of Wattle tutorials :
- How to choose between Wattle & Wattle Curve
- Pattern Tester Round-up
- Inspiration + Ideas
- Pockets (all views) (this post!)
- Bias Cut seams (views A & D) and Tips for Pattern Matching
- Pleats (view B) and Alternate Pleat Patterns
- Gathers (view C)
- Button Waistband
- Tie Waistband
- Wattle skirt hack: Bib overalls
- Wattle skirt hack: Gathered tier hem