You guys, the bias cut versions (views A + D) of the Wattle skirt are so much fun to play with! So lovely in solid colors and all over prints, but oh so satisfying when done in a stripe or plaid. It’s the perfect pattern to practice pattern matching!
Ever wanted to create a chevron design using stripes? Well today I’m going to show you how! There are actually multiple different methods out there for doing this. For example, some people like transferring the lines of the stripes/pattern onto a paper pattern, or tracing the pattern onto the fabric. But I’m going to show you a pretty simple method that has always worked for me! Not only will it work for stripes, but plaids too.
Just a note – I chose a kind of complicated stripe for this example (doh!). So I’m not going to be worried about matching up all the little designs withing the stripes, just the straight lines. But the method works just the same.
And then after that, I’ll go over how to sew up all of the bias cut seams, as well.
Phew. Ok, let’s do this…
// PATTERN MATCHING //
Lay your fabric down open and flat. Make sure your stripes or pattern is nice and straight.
Start with either your front or back skirt pattern piece. I’m starting with the back skirt.
Place your pattern piece down so that the right side of the pattern is facing up. Line up the grainline – if you’re working with vertical stripes it will be easy because it should just line up with a stripe!
Pin in place, using lots of pins to keep everything aligned, or use a lot weights if thats the method your prefer. You just want to make sure the fabric doesn’t shift at all when cutting.
Once everything is ready, cut it out.
Now take that fabric piece that you just cut out (either still attached to the paper pattern or not – up to you), and place that upside down on top of your fabric in a different spot. It’s important that it’s upside down, opposite of how you just cut it out.
Place it down so that the pattern on the piece you already cut out lines up with the pattern on the fabric.
Move it ever so slightly until every single line or stripe lines up perfectly. The piece you already have cut out should be camouflaged-like in the fabric.
Pin it down very carefully, using as many pins as necessary. Use a pin at every stripe or every point that needs to match up. No shame in over-pinning. It will just help ensure everything lines up as perfectly as possible!
Once it’s all ready, cut it out carefully.
Place your two back pieces down side by side and get so excited how well thats going to look once they’re sewn together!
Repeat the exact same process for the other skirt side (front skirt, in my case). Remember – patience and precision is key here! Use aaaaaaall the pins.
// BIAS SEAMS //
First things first, staystitch along the top edges of your front and back pieces (sorry, I forgot to photograph this step on the striped skirt!).
We are going to be sewing the Center Back and Center Front seams. If you are not working with stripes, it can be hard sometimes to distinguish which side is the CB and which is the side seam on the back piece (the front you can tell because of the pockets). Just remember that the CB seam has double notches.
I’m starting with the back pieces.
Place the back pieces together with right sides together, lining up the center back seam.
Pin in place. If you are working on pattern matching – use LOTS of pins! I mean a lot. At every point that you need to match up. Be very careful and diligent with this step to ensure everything matches up like you want.
Sew 5/8″ from the raw edge. Finish the raw edge with your preferred method.
Press your seam either open or to the side. If you’re pattern matching, turn your back skirt to the right side and marvel at your work. Look at those matching stripes! (again, I chose a complicated stripe, so I wasn’t worried about matching up all the little designs within the stripes, just the straight lines.)
Repeat the same process with the Front skirt pieces. Place on top of each other with right sides together and lining up the center front seam. Pin in place with as many pins as needed, and sew 5/8″ from the raw edge.
Now place your skirt front and skirt back together with right sides together.
Line up the two side seams, and pin in place.
Sew both side seams 5/8″ from the raw edge, and then finish your raw edges with your preferred method. Press open or towards the back.
And that’s it!
LOOKING FOR MORE WATTLE POSTS?
Here’s the full list of Wattle tutorials :
- How to choose between Wattle & Wattle Curve
- Pattern Tester Round-up
- Inspiration + Ideas
- Pockets (all views)
- Bias Cut seams (views A & D) and Tips for Pattern Matching (this post!)
- Pleats (view B) and Alternate Pleat Patterns
- Gathers (view C)
- Button Waistband
- Tie Waistband
- Wattle skirt hack: Bib overalls
- Wattle skirt hack: Gathered tier hem