Here we are, the final step for our woven Floreat sewalong. It’s time to hem! Whether you’ve created a dress or blouse, sleeves or sleeveless, pockets or none, zipper or slit – all that is left to do is finish that bottom raw edge. And it’s the same process for all versions.
I’ll go over the basic hemming method, as well as a really neat, clean way to finish that corner point – a mitred seam. And then to finish it off, we’ll quickly go over hemming the sleeves as well.
Ok, let’s finish this!
Fold in 3/8″ around the entire hem and press.
Fold over again by another 3/8″, encasing the raw edge. Press.
If you’d like to just go with the basic hemming method, you can just go ahead and stitch now (see a few steps below).
But if you want a clean finish for the corner, follow the next steps…
Optional: Mitered Corner
Temporarily unfold the second fold only. Keep that first 3/8″ fold in place.
Using tailor’s chalk, water-soluble fabric marker, or another marking tool, mark the crease lines of the second fold.
I also mark it on the right side of the fabric, too.
Fold up the corner towards the wrong side of the fabric, so that the crease lines line up. Press this corner and fold well with your iron.
Unfold that corner and turn up once it’s pressed. You can see that this created a diagonal crease. Mark this crease with your marker too, if it helps.
Fold the corner of the garment in half with the right sides together. Align the outer edges, and match up the diagonal crease line with itself on the other side. Pin in place.
Stitch along that diagonal crease line. Make sure to backstitch at each end to secure it.
Cut off the excess fabric at the corner tip.
Turn the cornerback around, using a point-turner tool to shape the corner. Press well.
Look at that clean finish corner! No frayed exposed edges at the corner. Now you can topstitch. Or first…
Optional: Fusible Hemming Tape
Have you ever used a fusible hem tape like Stitch Witchery? It provides stability to the hem, prevents it from stretching or twisting, and holds it in place for topstitching without the need for pins.
Just simply sandwich the hem tape in between the hem fold and iron to fuse it in place. Super simple!
Whether you choose to use hem tape or not…
Topstitching
Topstitch just under 3/8″ from the finished edge of the hem, around the entire hem.
Just pivot at the corner!
Sleeve Hem
It’s the same exact process for the sleeves, whether short sleeves or long sleeves.
First, turn under 3/8″ and press.
Turn under another 3/8″ and press again.
Either apply your hem tape or pin in place.
Stitch just under 3/8″ from the finished hem edge.
LOOKING FOR MORE FLOREAT POSTS?
Here’s the full list of Floreat posts and tutorials:
- Pattern tester round-up
- Inspiration + Ideas
- Waist tie and separate belt
- Center back: zipper and slit options
- Pockets and seams (sleeved dress and blouse versions)
- Neckline facing (sleeved versions)
- Sleeves
- Sleeveless version: facing and seams
- Hemming (this post!)
- Bonus: Knit version
- Inspiration: Floreat as maternity
We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNfloreat and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!
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