Flint Variation // Bib Overalls + FREE pattern pieces!

Hey everyone, it’s Holly! I am so sooo excited to bring you today’s tutorial. May I present to you my favorite pattern variation of all time – Flint bib overalls!

This hack works so well with both the tie waist and button waist versions of Flint. And those details add just the right amount of a unique touch to these bibs! Also, how cute would this be with a shorts version, too?! I’m putting it on my to-do list for Spring.

Meg has provided a FREE pattern add-on that you can access here, and I’m going to go over how to construct it in this post!

But first, let’s go over the details, shall we?

Criss cross straps that are sewn into the back waistband. 

The bib lines up perfectly with the waistband edge and pockets.

Center front seam, patch pocket and front button strap closure.

In addition to the basic construction, I’ll also go over a few different options, such as for finishing the bib edges, as well as some customization ideas and how to make your bib front removable!

OK, are you as excited as I am? Let’s go!

// WAISTBAND //

So by now, you will have constructed your pants right up until the waistband, following the regular Flint instructions.

The process of attaching the waistband is exactly as described in the instructions. But for the overalls,  The waistband is two seperate  pieces instead of one piece that is folded over. This allows you to enclose the seams of the bib and straps into the waistband for a nice clean finish. Attaching it to the pants is exactly the same, though, so I’m not going to go into a lot of detail here. If you need help, check out the sewalong posts for the tie waistband and button waistband.

For the tie waistband you will need bonus pattern pieces 12 & 13 and for the button waistband you will need pattern piece 14. If you are sewing a detachable bib you can use the regular Flint waistband pattern pieces if you prefer.

If you are making the ties waistband [13] , attach the ties [8] and left waistband piece [12] exactly the same – lining up the notches. The ties should be positioned in just about the center, with 5/8″ on either side.

With right sides together, pin your waistband to your pants waistline, so that it extends 5/8″ beyond on either side. Sew in place.

Press the waistband and seam allowance up.

// BIB, FINISH OPTION 1 //

There are two ways to finish your bib. If you are using a light weight or medium weight fabric, you can choose to double layer your bib, which I’ll show you here first. This will result in beautiful enclosed seams and a wonderful clean finish. You will need to cut 4 pieces from the bib pattern piece [9].

If you are using a heavier weight fabric, like rigid denim, you may want to just turn under the edges to finish the bib. So you would only need to cut 2 bib pieces. I’ll show you that option below.

This is the double layered option:

Place two of your bib pieces together with right sides together. Line up the center front, and sew 5/8″ from the raw edge. Press the seam open.

Repeat for the second layer.

This is optional, but on the outer layer, you can choose to topstitch on either side of the center front seam.

Place your two layers together, with right sides together, lining up the center seams, the top edge, and the two side edges. Pin in place.

Sew 5/8″ from the raw edge around the two sides and top edges, pivoting at the corners. Do not sew along the bottom edge.

Clip the corners and trim back the seam allowance.

Turn right side out through the bottom opening. Press well.

// BIB, FINISH OPTION 2 //

This next option is ideal for thicker fabrics (although you can also use it for lighter fabrics if you’d like). IT is only one layer, with the edges turned under.

Just like before, place your two bib pieces right side together, and sew 5/8″ from the center front edge.

Now, it’s important to finish the raw edge of the center front seam in this version, because you will be able to see it. You can do this by whichever method you prefer, but I think its a great spot for a flat felled seam! We went over how to do one here.

I did a flat felled seam in the above photos (sorry, I already attached the pocket before I took the photo. whoops! we’ll go over that step in a minute). 

Turn the top edge and two side edges under, towards the wrong side, by 1/4″.

Turn all three edges under agin by 3/8″, so that you are enclosing the raw edges.

Stitch close to the folded edge on al three sides.

// BIB POCKET AND BUTTON HOLES //

Transfer the 5 corner markings of the bib pocket [10]  placement from the bib pattern piece [9] to your bib. I used pins and a soluble marker, but you can do this a few different ways. You can view a whole post on transferring pattern markings here.

Along the top edge of your pocket piece [10], turn under 1/4″ towards the wrong side, and then again by another 3/8″.

Stitch close to the folded edge, and then again 1/4″ away from that.

Turn under all other sides 5/8″ towards the wrong side. Press well.

Place the pocket [10] on top of your bib [9], matching up the corners with the markings you made. Pin in place.

Sew the pocket to the bib along the sides and bottom, close to the folded edge. Do not sew along the top!

You can now also transfer the buttonhole markings to your bib, and create your buttonholes.

// STRAPS //

You should have cut out 4 strap [11] pieces from your fabric. Place two pieces right side together, and sew along the long sides and straight short side, pivoting at the corners, 5/8″ from the raw edge.

Leave the slanted short edge open.

Repeat for the other two pieces.

Clip the corners and trim back the seam allowance.

Turn the straps right side out through the open slanted edge. Press well.

// ATTACHING THE BIB AND STRAPS //

Place the bib on top of the waistband/pants with right sides together. Line up the center front seam of the bib with the center front notch on the waistband. Line up the raw edges of the bib with the raw edge of the waistband. The finished edge of the bib should line up with the top edge of the pockets on the pants (the left side should be 5/8″ from the raw edge).

Pin in place.

Baste in place 1/2″ from the edge.

On the back of the waistband, there should be 5 markings. The middle mark is the center back. The set of markings on either side of center back are where the straps will be placed.

From the right side of the fabric, pin the slanted edge of your straps [11] to the waistband in between the markings indicated. The longer end of the slanted edge should be closer to the side seams, and the shorter end of the slanted edge should be closer to center back. As you can see, this will cause your straps to criss-cross.

Baste in place 1/2″ from the raw edge.

// WAISTBAND FACING AND FINISHING TOUCHES //

On your other waistband piece (2 pieces sewn together for the tie waistband), apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric.

This is now your waistband facing.

Along the bottom edge of the waistband facing, turn up 5/8″ towards the wrong side.

With right sides together, pin your waistband facing to your waistband. Line up the top raw edge, corners, and short ends. And match up notches.

Starting at one of the short ends, sew 5/8″ from the raw edge. Pivot at the corner, and sew 5/8″ along the top edge. When you reach the other side, pivot again and sew 5/8″ from the edge of the other short end.

On the front, the short edge stitching should line up perfectly next to the edge of the bib. Be careful not to catch it in the stitching. And If you are making the tied waistband, make sure not to catch the tie in your stitching. 

I forgot to photograph this step, but make sure clip the corners so that you can get those perfect corners when you turn them.

Turn the facing right side out.

This step is optional – You won’t be able to get the whole thing. But you can under stitch the seam allowance to the waistband facing, close to the seam.

With it now turned right side out, press the facing down well. Pin in place, and finish attaching the facing to the pants just as described in the Flint instructions. You can either stitch in the ditch from the right side, top stitch close to the seam line or hand stitch.

Finish the little details, like your waistband button(s) and hem. Need help with that? Again, here’s the post for the tie waistband and the button waistband, and hem.

Try on your overalls and line up the straps with the buttonholes on the bib and test out where the best spot is for your buttons for the best fit. Sew your buttons to the straps, and you are done!

// CUSTOMIZATION IDEAS & DETACHABLE BIB //

• No center front seam – eliminate the bib’s center front seam allowance and cut on the fold instead
• Create your own pocket shape
• Or leave the pocket off!
• Sew the straps to the front of the bib (sandwich in-between the two layers if you’re doing that option), and have the button attachment in the back waistband instead
• Use snaps or buckles instead of buttons
• Make the bib and straps detachable! If you want to use the original Flint waistband pattern piece (or have an existing pair of Flint pants you want to wear as overalls) you can add buttons to inside of the waistband, and buttonholes to the bib and straps. Like so:

Just make sure to finish the bottom edge of your detachable bib!

Ready to make your own bib overalls? Get your add-on pattern pieces here!

Need help with the the rest of your Flint construction? You can find all of the sewalong posts here:

• 5 ways to transfer pattern markings to fabric
• How to remove release tucks and convert to a flat front
• How to lengthen or shorten the pattern 
• Inspiration, fabric ideas and optional ideas for customising your pattern
• Release tucks and darts 
• Pockets
• Sewing seams
• Sewing the tie waistband V2 & V4
• Sewing the button up waistband V1 & V3
• Hemming

Don’t own the Fling pants and shorts pattern? Buy it here! And don’t forget to check out the #MNflint tag on Instagram to see what everyone else is making!