Hey, everyone! It’s Holly again, moving right along with the next sewalong – the Dawn jeans sewalong. Now, this one is going to look a little different, since most of the construction of the Dawn jeans is exactly the same as the Ash jeans. So you can use the Ash sewalong posts to help you with your Dawn construction, with the addition of a few new tutorial posts that I’ll talk about in a minute.
But first, although the construction is the same, let’s discuss what is the difference between Dawn and Ash. Ash is meant to have a mid-ish rise and sit below your naval, whereas Dawn is a little higher rise and meant to sit at your natural waist. But more importantly – the Ash jeans are a stretch denim pattern, while the Dawn jeans are a rigid jean pattern.
STRETCH VS. RIGID JEANS
So stretch denim is denim blended with a small amount of elastane/lycra/spandex that allows it to, literally, stretch. Different amounts of elastic will result in a range of stretch percentages. For example, Ash calls for denim with 2% of a stretch fibre with at least 15-20% stretch percentage. Working with denim with this amount of stretch allows a pattern to have negative ease, and results in a tight, very close-fitting, body-con jean through the waist and hip. Think – the modern-day skinny jeans or jegging. This is the Ash jean pattern.
Rigid denim, on the other hand, just means non-stretch. It contains no elastane/lycra/spandex (or if you can’t find true rigid denim you like, go with one that has very little elastic fibres, 1% or less, with a very small amount of stretch percentage). It’s classic denim, which creates a more relaxed fitting pair of jeans. The pattern has positive ease, and will fit close through the waist and hip, but not super snug and tight like with stretch denim. Think – a vintage denim look. Like vintage mom jeans. This is the Dawn jeans pattern. You can also use other non-stretch bottom weights other than denim, such as twill, corduroy, or linen.
DAWN SEWALONG SCHEDULE
Ok, so now back to this sewalong. The main difference between Ash and Dawn is the fit and type of denim used. But the construction is basically exactly the same. From the pockets to the seams, to the waistband and belt loops and hardware – the same construction! In fact, if you are including a zipper fly front on your Dawn jeans, you can follow the Ash sewalong exactly. Of course, there is one more difference between the two patterns – Dawn includes options for a button fly or an exposed button fly. So we will be including new posts for those tutorials, as well as new tips for sewing buttonholes, finishing pocket bags, and embroidering your jeans!
Here is a list of Ash jeans posts that also pertain to the Dawn jeans:
- Where to buy jeans making supplies
- How to adjust rise
- How to grade between sizes
- How to lengthen or shorten the inseam
- How to shorten a denim zipper
- How to sew flat felled seams
- Fly front
- Front pockets
- Back pockets, yoke, and back seam
- Inseam and side seams
- Belt loops and waistband
- Buttonhole and hem
- How to install rivets and jeans buttons
- How to distress denim
And here are the new posts coming this week to help you with Dawn:
- Dawn pattern tester round-up
- Dawn inspiration and ideas
- How to sew a button fly
- How to sew an exposed button fly
- How to finish pocket bags with french seams
- Tips for embroidering jeans