Next up for Jarrah is the neckline finishing! I’m going to go over how to do the neckband (views A, B and C), as well as the funnel neck (view D). Technically, the construction is exactly the same for both options – the funnel neck is just larger than the neckband. But in case you are a visual learner like I am, I’ll go over both separately!
Ok, let’s do this…
Fold over your neckband, right sides together, matching up the short ends. Sew 1/4″ from the raw edge with a zig-zag stitch or serger.
Press the seam either open or to the side.
Fold your now neckband tube in half widthwise, with wrong sides together. So the right side of the fabric is on the outside. Line up the raw edges.
Place a pin at the seam – this is the left shoulder mark. Place another pin exactly across from the seam, this is your right shoulder seam. Now place pins at the two other notches – these are your centre front and centre back marks.
Place pins or markings at the centre front and centre backs of your sweater body, to make it easier.
Now place your neckband on the right side of the sweater neckline, lining up the raw edges. Match up the seam on the neckband with the left shoulder seam, and the other notches to the right shoulder seam, centre front, and centre back, as discussed above.
The neckband will be smaller than the neckline, So slightly stretch the neckband and ease in the neckline to continue pinning all the way around.
Then stitch in place 1/4″ from the raw edge using a zig-zag stitch or serger.
***a note – I messed up and sewed my neckband on my samples with the neckband seam at centre back. Your neckband seam should be at the left shoulder seam as mentioned above.
Press the neckband up, with seam allowance towards the body. This is really, really important!! Your neckband most likely won’t lay flat and be a bit wavy straight off the sewing machine. The only way to get it to lay flat is to press really well to help it conform to the curve of the neckline.
This step is optional but adds a nice touch. You can topstitch along the seam, on the body of the sweater, using either a zig-zag stitch or a double needle. This will help the neckband and seam lay flat, as well.
Also a note – the pattern recommends using a ribbing fabric for the neckband, cuffs, and hem band of view A. It’s recommended, but not necessary! You can also just use the same fabric as the body of your sweater, or a different (stable) jersey knit.
The photo above shows you two options. For the pink sweater, I used ribbing, and for the grey sweater, I used the self-fabric.
***again – I messed up and sewed my neckband on my samples with the neckband seam at centre back. Your neckband seam should be at the left shoulder seam as mentioned above. Sorry about that, guys!
Fold the funnel neck in half, right sides together, lining up the shorter ends. Sew in place 1/4″ from the raw edge using a zig-zag stitch or serger.
Press the seam open or to one side.
Fold your funnel neck tube in half width-wise, with wrong sides together. So that the right side of the fabric is on the outside. Line up the raw edges.
Place pins or markings on the seam of the funnel neck, as well as the three other notches.
On your sweater body, pin or mark the centre front and centre back, to make it easier.
Turn your sweater body inside out, so the wrong side of the fabric is facing you.
Place your funnel neck inside the sweater through the neck hole.
Match up the funnel neck seam with the centre back of the sweater and pin. Match up the other three notches on the funnel neck with the centre front, and shoulder seams. Pin in place, and continue pinning in place around the entire neckline.
Sew in place 1/4″ from the raw edge using a zig-zag stitch or serger.
Press the funnel neck away from the sweater. And your funnel neck is complete!
LOOKING FOR MORE JARRAH POSTS?
- Pattern Tester Round-up
- Inspiration + Ideas
- How to Lengthen the Pattern
- Neckband and Funnel Neckline (This post!)
- Sleeves with Cuffs (A&C)
- Split Sleeve and Curved Hem (B&D)
- Hem Band (A)
- Tie Hem (C)