Hey everyone! The zipper is up next in our Harper shorts and skort construction. This pattern calls for an invisible zipper, but if you would like to use a different zipper installation (in the center back seam), you can. I think an exposed metal jeans zipper would be pretty cool, too!
And while we are at it, we will also finish the rest of the center back seam. And the center front seam, as well! Ok, let’s go…
Zipper + Center Back
Here’s a tip for installing an invisible zipper – before you get started, sew a line of basting stitches 5/8″ from the edge of the center back. On both back fabric pieces.
Open your invisible zipper and lay down upside down. Iron out each side so the coils are laying flat and not curled up. Make sure to turn your iron’s heat setting down so you don’t melt your plastic zipper.
Place one of your back fabric pieces down in front of your with right side up. Place your zipper down, face down, so that the zipper teeth are facing away from the raw edge and are lined up on top of your basting stitch line.
The top of the zipper teeth should be about 3/4″ down from the waistline.
Pin in place.
Using either an invisible zipper foot or regular zipper foot (you can use either, really!), sewalong the zipper tape close to the coil. Stop when your machine foot hits the zipper slider at the bottom.
Repeat for the other side. Lay the other back fabric piece right side up. Place the zipper down, face down, onto the right side of the fabric, lining up the coils on the basting stitches. Again, the top of the zipper teeth should be 3/4″ from the waistline. Pin.
Sew in place with your zipper foot, just like with the first side. Stopping at the slider at the bottom.
Close the zipper. With right sides of the fabric together, line up the rest of the center back/crotch seam.
Stitch the rest of the seam in place 5/8″ from the raw edge.
Note – your crotch seam stitching may not line up with the zipper stitching. There may even be a small gap. That’s totally ok!
Clip into the curve of the seam, being careful not to cut through the stitches. Press the seam open.
Now your center back is done!
Now move on to the center front. With right sides together, match up the center front edges of your two front fabric pieces and pin in place.
Stitch in place 5/8″ from the raw edge.
Clip into the seam at the curve, being careful not to cut through the stitches.
Press the seam open or to the side.
Because this pattern is lined, it isn’t necessary to finish the raw edge of the seam, because it will be hidden by the lining. But if you’d like to finish the edge, you can do it now.
// LOOKING FOR MORE HARPER POSTS? //
Here’s the full list of Harper posts and tutorials:
- Inspiration + Ideas
- Zipper + Center Front Seam (this post!)
- Pockets (version 1)
- Skort (version 2) – hem, pockets, and pleats
- Side Seams and Inseam
- Lining and Facing
- Attaching the Lining
- BONUS: Wide Leg Pants Variation
Don’t have the Harper sewing pattern yet?! Order Harper today! We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNharper and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!