Ok, everyone. Today we’re going to tackle the skort front for version two of Harper. So if you are making the version 1 shorts, you can skip this one.
Now, I know this post seems really long. It’s not hard, just a lot of photos – I promise! There are 3 steps to assembling the skort – edge finishing, pockets, and pleats. All of which, individually, are pretty easy steps. But I thought it just made sense to include them all together, and get our skort piece done all in one go.
Are you with me? Let’s go!
Before we get started, lets talk about the markings and notches on the skort pattern pieces, and transferring them to your fabric.
The dashed lines don’t need to be transferred – thats just to give you an idea of where the pleat will fold. But it really comes down to the notches, so you only need to transfer those.
Both the right and left pattern both have markings labeled “A”, which is important. There are also two other notches on the left skort. I’m going to label them “B” and “C” so its easier to understand in this tutorial. I also wrote these letters on the fabric itself so you can see it easily.
Also, make a small mark at the CF notch on the left skort!
HEM/EDGE FINISH
On both the left and right skort pieces, stitch down the center front seams 1/4″ from the raw edges.
Fold in along this line of stitches, towards the wrong side of the fabric, and press.
Stitch down through the fold, this time only 1/8″ from the folded edge.
Trim back the seam allowance, as close to the line of stitching as possible.
Fold over once more towards the wrong side of the fabric, so that you are just encasing the raw edge. Press.
Stitch once more through the center of this narrow hem.
From the wrong side, you will see two rows of stitches…
From the right side you will only see one row of stitches.
Repeat these steps for the hemline on both the right and left skort.
POCKETS
Put your skort panels down in front of you with right sides facing up. Place your pockets down on top of the panels, with right sides together, lining up the openings.
Stitch together 5/8″ from the raw edge.
Press the pocket and the seam allowance away from the skort panels.
Understitch the seam allowance to the pocket, close to the seam.
Now place the pocket bag down on top of the pocket, with right sides together. Line up the curved edges, matching the notches. Pin in place.
Sew around the curved edge only 5/8″ from the raw edge (through the pocket and pocket bag. you’re not sewing through the skort).
Finish the raw edge by your preferred method.
Flip the pockets around so they are on the inside. Line up along the waistline and side seam edges, and match up the edge of the pocket lines up with the notches on the pocket bag.
Press everything well, and baste together along the side seam and waistline, about 1/2″ from the raw edge.
PLEATS
Let’s start with the right skort panel. Remember the notch marked “A”?
Fold along notch “A”, towards the wrong side. This will enclose the pocket bag, and the finished edge of the skort will line up with the notch on the pocket bag.
Staystitch in place along the waistline, 1/2″ from the raw edge. Press.
Now onto the left skort panel. We are going to be working with notches “B” and “C”.
Fold along notch “B” with wrong sides together, and then bring this fold over to line up with notch “C”.
Staystitch in place along the waistline, 1/2″ from the raw edge. Press.
Now lay your shorts front down in front of you, facing up.
Place your left skort panel down on top of the shorts, both with right sides facing up.
Line up the CF notch on the skort with the center front seam of the shorts.
With the waistline and side seams lined up, staystitch together 1/2″ from the raw edge, pivoting at the corner.
Note: the the hemline of the skort will be shorter than the shorts at the side seam, and the edge of the skort should line up with a notch on the side seam of the shorts. This is because the skort is already hemmed and the shorts are not yet. Don’t try to stretch the skort to match up with the shorts, you need that extra at the end to hem your shorts.
Now place your right skirt panel on top of the shorts, with right side facing up as well. Match up the folded edge of the right skort panel, with the “A” notch on the right skort panel.
With the waistline and side seams lined up, pin and then staystitch together 1/2″ from the raw edge, pivoting at the corner.
Now your skort front is fully assembled, and you can continue on with construction of the shorts! Next up- attaching the front and back shorts together.
// LOOKING FOR MORE HARPER POSTS? //
Here’s the full list of Harper posts and tutorials:
- Inspiration + Ideas
- Darts
- Zipper + Center Front Seam
- Pockets (version 1)
- Skort (version 2) – hem, pockets, and pleats (this post!)
- Side Seams and Inseam
- Lining and Facing
- Attaching the Lining
- Hem
- BONUS: Wide Leg Pants Variation
Don’t have the Harper sewing pattern yet?! Order Harper today! We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNharper and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!
