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How to sew a flat felled-seam

How to flat fell seams

Have you ever done a flat felled seam? Its commonly used on denim, trousers, and jackets. Its a super clean and neat seam finish to give your garment that little professional touch, since it completely encases the raw edges, and its perfect for your Ash and Dawn jeans. Now, It’s not the seam finish thats used in the pattern instructions, this is just an added option…

how to sew a flat-felled seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

This is what your seam finishing looks like as following the pattern instructions. Still pretty clean, and nice and simple, but you do have your finished edge showing. Whether its serged or zig zag stitched or trimmed with pinking shears – you will be able to see that edge from the inside of your jeans. But there is another finishing option, and thats the flat felled seam! It will give an even cleaner finish than this, and I’m going to show you how to do it on a sample below….

how to sew a flat-felled seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary To start, you’ll sew your 5/8” seam as usual with regular thread.

how to sew a flat-felled seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary On the side that you intend to press towards/topstitch on, trim the seam allowance to 1/4”.

how to sew a flat-felled seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary Press the whole seam allowance towards that side – so that the wider side of the seam allowance is on top hiding the trimmed side.

how to sew a flat-felled seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Flip it back over so you can see that trimmed side again. Fold the wider side in half, so that it encases the raw edge of the trimmed side.

Then flip it over again to how you just had to pressed – towards the side you are topstitching on. Now all raw edges are enclosed. You can see this better in the next step. Press well.

how to sew a flat-felled seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary how to sew a flat-felled seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Pin in place from the outside.  You can see better here what it now looks like from the inside.

how to sew a flat-felled seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Using topstitching thread, stitch close (1/16”) to the seam, and then again 1/4” away from the first line.

how to sew a flat-felled seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

This is what it looks like from the inside now that its finished. See! Nice and clean!

// LOOKING FOR MORE ASH POSTS? //

Here’s the full list of Ash posts and tutorials:

Ash Jeans Don’t have the Ash sewing pattern yet?! Order Ash today ! We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNash and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!

Order Ash

// LOOKING FOR MORE DAWN POSTS? //

Here’s the full list of posts and tutorials that can be used for both the Dawn and Ash jeans:

And here are the new posts to help you specifically with Dawn:

Megan Nielsen Dawn rigid jeans sewing pattern set // vintage inspired rigid jean with four views, multiple lengths and multiple fly options!Don’t have the Dawn sewing pattern yet?! Order Dawn today ! We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNdawn and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!

Order Dawn

About Author

Holly writes part time for the Megan Nielsen blog– sewing like crazy, creating tutorials and sewalongs. She has been sewing since she was a little girl, and has her degree in apparel design. Now she’s a stay at home mama, and spends all her free nap times at her sewing machine.

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[…] Megan Nielsen is focusing on how to sew a flat felled seam. […]

rrregena
3 years ago
Meg
Admin
Meg
3 years ago
Reply to  rrregena

Thanks honey! I love seeing alternate methods!