Have you ever done a flat felled seam? It’s commonly used on denim, trousers, and jackets. It’s a super clean and neat seam finish to give your garment that little professional touch since it completely encases the raw edges, and it’s perfect for your Ash and Dawn jeans. Now, It’s not the seam finish that’s used in the pattern instructions, this is just an added option…
This is what your seam finishing looks like as following the pattern instructions. Still pretty clean, and nice and simple, but you do have your finished edge showing. Whether it’s serged or zig-zag stitched or trimmed with pinking shears – you will be able to see that edge from the inside of your jeans. But there is another finishing option, and that’s the flat felled seam! It will give an even cleaner finish than this, and I’m going to show you how to do it on a sample below…
To start, you’ll sew your 5/8” seam as usual with regular thread.
On the side that you intend to press towards/topstitch on, trim the seam allowance to 1/4”.
Press the whole seam allowance towards that side – so that the wider side of the seam allowance is on top hiding the trimmed side.
Flip it back over so you can see that trimmed side again. Fold the wider side in half, so that it encases the raw edge of the trimmed side.
Then flip it over again to how you just had to pressed – towards the side you are topstitching on. Now all raw edges are enclosed. You can see this better in the next step. Press well.
Pin in place from the outside. You can see better here what it now looks like from the inside.
Using topstitching thread, stitch close (1/16”) to the seam, and then again 1/4” away from the first line.
This is what it looks like from the inside now that it’s finished. See! Nice and clean!
LOOKING FOR MORE ASH POSTS?
Here’s the full list of Ash posts and tutorials:
- Pattern tester roundup
- Introduction to Ash sewalong and preparation
- Where to buy jeans making supplies
- Inspiration and ideas for customizing your jeans
- How to adjust rise
- How to lengthen or shorten the inseam
- How to sew flat felled seams (this post)
- Fly front
- Front pockets
- Back pockets, yoke, and back seam
- Inseam and side seams
- Belt loops and waistband
- Buttonhole and hem
- How to install rivets and jeans buttons
- How to distress denim
We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNash and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!
Order Ash today in sizes 0-20 and Curve sizes 14-30
LOOKING FOR MORE DAWN POSTS?
Here’s the full list of posts and tutorials that can be used for both the Dawn and Ash jeans:
- Where to buy jeans making supplies
- How to adjust rise
- How to lengthen or shorten the inseam
- How to sew flat felled seams (this post!)
- Fly front
- Front pockets
- Back pockets, yoke, and back seam
- Inseam and side seams
- Belt loops and waistband
- Buttonhole and hem
- How to install rivets and jeans buttons
- How to distress denim
And here are the new posts to help you specifically with Dawn:
- Dawn pattern tester round-up
- Dawn inspiration and ideas
- How to sew a button fly
- How to sew an exposed button fly
- How to finish pocket bags with french seams
- Tips for embroidering jeans
We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNdawn and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!
