Menu
MN2208 Dawn / MN2211 Ash / Sewalongs

Ash & Dawn Jeans Sewalong: Buttonhole and Hem

Ash & Dawn Buttonhole hem // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Almost done now! Let’s get two simple steps, the buttonhole & hem for our Ash jeans (or Dawn jeans) out of the way in one go, ok?

The hem is so simple, there’s not much to be said about it. Easy peasy, you’ll have it done in no time.

But let’s talk jeans buttonholes. A standard machine buttonhole in topstitching thread is probably not going to be easy through thick denim and isn’t the sturdiest. A keyhole buttonhole is a better option, and works best for shank buttons anyway! Most home machines won’t have a keyhole button option, so we’re going to show you how to do it by hand. Also pretty simple, so don’t be intimidated by it. It’ll take a few goes, but once you’re ready, you’ll be able to sew it up nice and quick.

Ok, let’s just get to it……

BUTTONHOLE

how to sew the buttonhole and hem on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Draw your keyhole buttonhole on your jeans using tailor’s chalk or a chalk pencil.

The curved end of the buttonhole should sit about 1/2” from the edge of the waistband, and come to a point towards the belt loop/pocket. How long your keyhole is depended on your button – denim shank buttons can vary in diameter. So measure your button, and make sure your keyhole length is a little longer than that.

how to sew the buttonhole and hem on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Set your machine to a tight zig-zag stitch, similar to a bar tack, and make sure you have topstitching thread in. Starting at the long straight end, stitch towards the curved end. When you reach the curve, I suggest stepping off the foot pedal and going around it by hand. Turn the handwheel a few times, pivot slightly, turn a few more times for a few more stitches, pivot again, and continue doing this until you’re around the curve. Then continue to sew down the keyhole, overlapping at the straight end.

how to sew the buttonhole and hem on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary
how to sew the buttonhole and hem on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

I can’t emphasise this enough – you should be practising this many times before you do it on your jeans! I did a total of 6 practice keyholes before I was satisfied to get the zig-zag length right and to perfect the size and go round the curve.

how to sew the buttonhole and hem on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary
how to sew the buttonhole and hem on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

When it’s all done, use a buttonhole cutter or seam ripper to open your buttonhole.

Be careful if you’re using a seam ripper though! It can be tricky ripping through multiple layers of thick denim, and you want to be careful not to rip past your stitches. 

HEM

how to sew the buttonhole and hem on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

A jeans hem really isn’t any different than a normal garment hem. Meaning, it’s super simple.

Turn in 1/2” and press.

how to sew the buttonhole and hem on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Then turn in another 1/2”, encasing the raw edge, and press again.

how to sew the buttonhole and hem on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

With topstitching thread, stitch just under 1/2” from the edge, making sure you are catching that folded edge on the inside.


LOOKING FOR MORE ASH AND DAWN POSTS?

Here is the full list of Dawn and Ash jeans posts:

We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNdawn or #MNash and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!


Don’t have the Dawn pattern yet?

Dawn & Dawn Curve

Order Dawn today in sizes 0-20 and Curve sizes 14-30


Don’t have the Ash pattern yet?

Ash & Ash Curve

Order Ash today in sizes 0-20 and Curve sizes 14-30

About Author

Holly writes part time for the Megan Nielsen blog– sewing like crazy, creating tutorials and sewalongs. She has been sewing since she was a little girl, and has her degree in apparel design. Now she’s a stay at home mama, and spends all her free nap times at her sewing machine.

Subscribe
Notify of
guest
0 Comments
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments