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How to sew yokes with fully enclosed seams // A Matilda dress tutorial

Matilda - How to sew yokes with fully enclosed seams

Hi everyone! SO first things first – big massive apology for how late this tutorial is. I had a minor drama working on the Matilda posts, namely that my machine timing was off and causing massive issues for me. I tried to push on through as i wanted to do the tutorials on time as promised, and did the first few posts, but then came to the realisation that my seams were not going to be strong and long lasting if I kept trying to sew with a timing issue, and at the end of the day, i really really want to wear this dress and not have it fall apart hehe.

So long story short – my darling Bernina is back from the repair shop and all fixed and at her best again! Hurray!

So lets get to it! Today i’m going to show you how to attach the shoulder yokes to the Matilda dress. This method results in fully enclosed neat yoke seams, and I honestly wouldn’t bother sewing a yoke any other way unless i had to :)

It’s really simple and i know you’re going to love it!

How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Place the Front Yoke [3] and Back Yoke [6] right sides together and so that the shoulders line up.

Sew the shoulder seams 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge. Press the seams open.

Repeat for both sets of yoke pieces, to end up with two sets of yokes, an inner set and outer set. I ran out of the lovely rust fabric when sewing this dress, so I have cut all my facings from contrast fabric – which makes it really easy for you to see which is the inner yoke and which is the outer!

How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Place the back bodice between the two yokes. The yokes should be right sides together, so that the right side of one yoke is facing the wrong side of the back bodice, an the right side of the other yoke is facing the right side of the back bodice.

Remember that if you are using a different fabric for your inner facings and inner yokes etc, then your outer yoke will be right sides together with the bodice, and the inner yoke will be right sides of yoke facing wrong side of bodice.

How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary Sew the back seam 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge.

How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Fold the yokes upwards away from the back bodice, and press well.

How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

If you’re like me and you are topstitching allll the damn seams, then now is a good time to topstitch the back yoke seam.

How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Place the front bodice pieces on top of the front yokes with right sides together so that the notches line up. Ensure that the front bodice is also right sides together with the back bodice.

Remember that we are not pinning anything to the inner yoke at this point, only the outer yoke.

Stay stitch the front bodice to the outer yoke only, ½” (1.3cm) from the raw edge.

How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Roll up the front bodice panels and pin them to keep them out of the way.

How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Roll up the back bodice panel and pin it to keep it out of the way.

How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Fold the inner yoke over the rolled up panels so that the front yoke seams line up and the rolled up front and back panels are sandwiched between. The inner and outer yoke panels should be right sides together at this stage. Ensure that your notches are matched up.
How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Sew the front yoke seam 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge.

How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Turn the yokes right side facing outwards and unpin the rolled up panels. You can literally pull the rolled up panels through either the neckline or the armhole side. Press well.

How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary How to sew yokes with completely enclosed seams // Matilda dress tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

And don’t forget my fellow topstitching freaks, now is a great time to topstitch the front yoke seams!

Now you can sit back and admire your ridiculously neat and pretty yokes, and feel rather smug about how easy it was to do.

// LOOKING FOR MORE MATILDA POSTS? //

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About Author

Meg is the Founder and Creative Director of Megan Nielsen Patterns, and is constantly dreaming up ideas for new sewing patterns and ways to make your sewing journey more enjoyable! She gets really excited about design details and is always trying to add way too many variations to our patterns.

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Martha
Martha
3 years ago

This is EXACTLY what I have been looking for! Easy to find enclosed back yoke tutorials, but I believe you are the only one who shows how to do front AND back. Thank you, Megan!