How to sew pockets with a concealed side opening // A Flint pants tutorial

My absolute favourite feature of the Flint pants is the crossover pocket opening. I love it so much that I want to add it to every pattern forever – ok kidding i won’t, that would get super boring am i right?

This opening is a really cool feature, and results in a really sleek unique pair of pants or shorts. It’s not difficult to do once you’ve had a look at the steps carefully and gotten your head around it!

Ready to get sewing?

The first step is to finish the curved raw edges of the Pocket Lining [4] and Pocket [3] separately using a serger/overlocker, zig zag stitch or binding. Don’t forget to do this first off as you won’t be able to do it neatly later on, and i don’t want you to cry :)

One of my favourite tips from our testers as to attach a strip of fusible interfacing along the pocket opening edge on the wrong side of the Pocket Lining [4] to prevent the pocket opening stretching out during use.

Place the Pocket Lining [4] on the Front [1] with right sides together and so that the pocket openings line up. Sew 5/8” (1.5cm) along the pocket opening.

Press the pocket and seams outwards away from the pants. Understitch close to the seamline on the pocket by sewing around 1-2mm from the seam. This will prevent your pocket lining from showing during wear.

Repeat for the other side.

I’m a huge believe in pressing a lot when sewing, so at this stage i like to turn the pocket lining towards the wrong side and press along the pocket opening to make sure its neat.

Place the Pocket [3] on top of the Pocket Lining [4] with right sides together and so that the notches line up and pin carefully.

This is where you need to be careful and pay attention. On the left pocket only sew 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge around the curved edge, stopping at the notch indicated on the pattern piece, then pivot towards the seam allowance, sew and then backstitch to reinforce. Sew only the Pocket Lining and Pocket together, not the pants. The opening created in the left pocket will be the entry into the pants or shorts.

When joining the left pocket to pieces, after pivoting i like to add a bartack for greater reinforcement. This edge will take a lot of strain when you take your pants on and off.

On the right pocket only sew 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge around the entire pocket outer edge. Sew only the Pocket Lining and Pocket together, not the pants.

Turn the pockets towards the wrong side and press the Pocket Lining and pocket opening well. Ensure that the edges of the Pocket Lining opening line up with the notches on the Pocket.

Baste ONLY the left Pocket Lining to the waistline seam ½” (1.3cm) from the raw edge, and leave the left Pocket loose at the waistline. Baste both the Pocket Lining and Pocket to the side seam.

Baste both the right Pocket Lining and Pocket in place along the side seam and waistline seam, ½” (1.3cm) from the raw edge.

And now you’re ready to continue sewing your pants. In our next tutorial we’ll sew the seams, so stay tuned!

// LOOKING FOR MORE TUTORIALS? //

Here’s the full list of Flint tutorials:

• 5 ways to transfer pattern markings to fabric
• How to lengthen or shorten the pattern 
• How to remove release tucks and convert to a flat front
• Inspiration, fabric ideas and optional ideas for customising your pattern
• Release tucks and darts
• Pockets (covered in this tutorial!)
• Sewing seams
• Sewing the tie waistband View B & View D
• Sewing the button up waistband View A & View C
• Hemming

Don’t have the Flint sewing pattern yet? Get it in store here! We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNflint and @megannielsenpatterns if sharing on social media.