I have so much love for special hems! I think hems often get overlooked when it comes to adding design features, but I think an interesting hem can take a blouse to the next level – especially if you’re the kind of girl who likes to wear your tops untucked. Today I’m going to show you how to sew a beautiful hem facing and three different ways to finish the internal raw edges so that it’s beautiful on the inside and the outside!
Due to the extreme curve of the Dove blouse hemline, I decided to make this a faced hem, with included hemline facing pieces, and I think it adds a lovely amount of weight and structure to the blouse.
Of course, if you prefer you may sew a very narrow rolled hem instead, using this tutorial.
Ready to sew a gorgeous hem facing?
The first method I’ll be showing you is covered in the pattern instructions, it’s basic, works well and is neat. I like this method for a more casual blouse, like the one above which is made from linen. The downside of this method is that the topstitching is visible from the outside of the garment, and though the raw edges are neatened, you can still see them on the inside, which I know will make some sewer’s heads explode.
Place the Front Hem Facing and Back Hem Facing right sides together so that the side seams line up.
Sew 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge along the side seams. Stop stitching ¼” (0.6cm) shy of the hemline.
Press the seams open. Finish the raw edges along the top of the facing by your preferred method, for example using an overlocker/serger, zig-zag stitch on a regular machine or perhaps a binding.
Turn the blouse the right way round, and place the hem facings over the hemline with right sides facing each other. Ensure that the notches line up and the side seams line up.
Sew ¼” (0.6cm) from the raw edge along the hemline.
Clip and notch along the curves of the seam allowance, being careful not to cut through the stitches. I like to use pinking sheers for this!
Press the facing and seams away from the blouse.
Understitch along the edge of the hemline facing to prevent the facing from rolling to the front of the garment during wear.
Turn the facing to the wrong side of the garment and press.
Attach the open edge of the facing to the blouse by topstitching.
Press the hemline well.
The second method is really great for those of us who like to enclose as many raw edges as humanly possible. When it comes to hemlines I don’t really like to see overlock or zig zag stitches, I really like to have that all hidden, and since the facing of the Dove blouse can be visible from some angles, I think it’s nice to completely enclose it. It’s not hard to do, and I think the result is really lovely inside and out.
As before, place the front and back facing right sides together and sew 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge along the side seams. Stop stitching ¼” (0.6cm) shy of the hemline.
Press the side seams open.
Sew 1/4″ along the top edge of the facing.
Turn in the top of the facing along the line of basting and press well.
Turn the blouse the right way round, and place the hem facings over the hemline with right sides facing each other. Ensure that the notches line up and the side seams line up.
Sew ¼” (0.6cm) from the raw edge along the hemline. Clip and notch along the curves of the seam allowance, being careful not to cut through the stitches. I like to use pinking sheers for this!
Press the facing and seams away from the blouse. Understitch along the edge of the hemline facing to prevent the facing from rolling to the front of the garment during wear. Turn the facing to the wrong side of the garment and press.
Attach the open edge of the facing to the blouse by topstitching.
Press the hemline well.
This method is quite similar to method 2 and is my favourite as it results in a nearly invisible finish on the outside and inside and completely enclosed raw seams. It’s where sewing dreams come true my dears!
For this method as in method 2, you will need to sew 1/4″ from the raw edge along the top of the facing, then turn that inwards and press.
Once you have sewn the facing to the blouse, clipped and notched, understitched and turned towards the wrong side of the garment, then you will press the facing well and pin it carefully in place along the entire length of the hemline.
At this point, you will hand sew the folded edge to the blouse using a slip stitch. For more detailed instructions on sewing a slip stitch specifically, check out this tutorial!
There you go my dears! 3 ways to sew seriously gorgeous hemline facings! I really hope you’ve enjoyed the Dove sewalong! Don’t forget to let me know in the comments if you have any questions.
LOOKING FOR MORE DOVE POSTS?
Here’s the complete list of Dove Tutorials:
- How to sew French darts
- 4 ways to sew beautiful centre front seams
- How to sew Neckline facings
- 3 ways to finish a neckline facing
- How to sew flared cuffs
- How to set sleeves
- How to hem flared sleeves
- How to sew a hemline facing (this post!)
DON’T HAVE THE PATTERN YET?
