Attaching a lining to a pair of pants may feel a bit intimidating, but I assure you it is actually a lot easier than you might think. Megan’s newest pattern, the Harper short, calls for a lining. The lining creates a super smooth fit, as well as allowing you to use some fabrics that may be a bit itchy on the skin. Imagine the Harper sewn up in a wool, worn with tights in the fall?! Megan offers very good instructions with her pattern with some detailed graphics, but I’m here to provide a detailed photograph tutorial that may help make the process even easier. So, let’s not waste any time and get started.
Before we begin attaching the lining to the main shorts, you should already have the main shorts sewn with the waist and hems still having raw edges. The lining pieces should be sewn together on the outer seams and front rise with the facing attached. Your lining should look something like the image above.
Step 1: First, prepare the main shorts by unzipping the back zip and flipping the zipper tape and seam allowances out so they lie flat facing you.
Step 2: Pin the facing, which is attached to the lining, and the shorts right sides together, matching up the notches. Make sure the raw edges of the waistline and center back seam line up. Sew along the waistline 5/8″ from the raw edge.
Step 3: Pull the lining and facing up away from the shorts and press the seams toward the facing.
Step 4: Understitch about 1/8″ from the seamline on the facing. This will prevent the facing from rolling to the outside once your shorts are finished.
*Go ahead a trim the seam allowances down to 1/4″ along the waistline to prevent bulk, especially if you are using thicker fabrics.
Step 5: Place the lining and shorts right sides together again. Line up the raw edges of the center back seams and sew the lining to the zipper tape and shorts center seam, just under 1/2″ from the raw edge. You are trying to sandwich the zipper tape between the lining and the shorts, without sewing over the zipper teeth. I found it helpful to use a zipper foot here to help me get as close as I could to the zipper teeth without sewing over them. Sew as far as you can till you hit the zipper pull.
Step 6: Carefully close the zipper and finish the center back seam of the lining by sewing 5/8″ from the raw edge. Sew as close as you can to the zipper pull. You may want to hand stitch some if you feel you have too much unsewn space on the center back seam.
Step 7: Clip the seams along the curve every 1/2″ and press open.
Step 8: Clip the upper corners on the center back, making sure not to clip through your stitches. Turn your shorts right side out and push the corners of the center back out.
Step 9: Press along the waistline and the back zipper being careful not to burn the zipper teeth.
Step 10: You will now sew the inseam of the lining. In order to do so, pull the lining through your shorts leg, lining up the raw edges and sew a 5/8″ seam up one leg. Repeat on the other leg. Finish the raw edges with your preferred method and press open or push to one side.
And, that’s it! At this point, you’ll just need to hem both the shorts and the lining and you will have a finished pair of Harper shorts. Enjoy them! I hope you found this tutorial helpful. Come say hello on my personal blog, Lace & Pine Designs. I enjoy meeting other people that share my passion for sewing!