Today i’ll be showing you my favourite neckline finish for knit fabrics. It’s my personal method for sewing knit neckline bindings, and i think it’s a much better method than the standard method. I like it because all the raw edges are enclosed, there is no trimming at the end and since it’s so sturdy it adds an extra level of stability to very lightweight and thin knits.
I include this method and the pattern pieces in my Briar and Mini Briar sewing patterns, but you can recreate this with any knit sewing pattern, you’ll just need to widen a standard neckline binding to be about 3″ (7.5cm) wide.
Ok lets get started!
We’ll start with the shoulder seams sewn and pressed open or towards the back.
Fold your binding in half length ways and sew 5/8″ from the raw edge. press.
Fold your binding in half width ways, so that seam is enclosed, and with right sides facing outwards. Press.
Make sure you have marked the notches on the neckline and notches on the binding piece. The notches on the binding piece are halfway between the centre front and centre back (seam) of the binding piece.
Now pin the raw edge of the binding to the raw edge of the neckline, matching up the notches. Make sure that you pin the binding to the wrong side of the fabric (inside of top). This is important!
Now stretch the binding to fit the neckline, and sew 1/4″ from the raw edge all the way round. You’ll notice that you don’t need to stretch the binding piece as much as you need to stretch a neckline band.
Press the binding upwards.
Now fold the binding over the neckline edge encasing it. And pin in place. Note we are not folding the seam edge over too – we are just encasing the edge in the binding.
Topstitch around the edge – and don’t forget to press the neckline really well – this will help set the binding and make it conform correctly to the curve. As you may see in the above picture, my binding looked a little weird before pressing – but now it’s perfect!
Now you’re done, and you have a nice sturdy neckline binding!