Are you guys finding some of the Eucalypt tips and tutorials from earlier this week helpful? Well let’s continue on with some more Eucalypt fun, today! I have a super fun variation to share with you. That is what is so great to the Eucalypt tank /dress – it lends itself to so many variation options. The possibilities are endless! One really easy option? Colorblocking. You can color block vertically, or as I’m going to show you today, horizontally. Combined with a button up front placket, it makes for a detailed and unique version of Eucalypt!
********EDIT: an awesome observant reader pointed out a mistake I had made while making this top. I’ve now corrected the instructions to accommodate for the correct amount of seam allowance. The parts of the instructions that have updated are now italicized. Sorry for mistake and the confusion!********
Ok, enough with the chit chat. Find out how to make this Eucalypt variation after the jump…..
1. To make your placket – extend your front bodice pattern piece and extra 1 1/2” inch beyond the center front seam line (the dotted line). Make sure the top and bottom edges are squared off.
2. To make the colorblock – on the center front, make a mark where you would like your colorblocking to be. Square out a line from the center front, extending all the way over to the side seam. Remember that you want to square it out, or keep it perpendicular, to the center front. (ignore that little mark I have, that is where I made my mistake and therefore had to adjust these instructions)
3. On your front side seam, measure from the armhole down to where your new line meets the side seam (for me, this ended up being 6 1/2″). On your back side seam, measure down this same amount, and make a small mark. Square out from your center back to this new marking. You want your new seam lines to match up at the side seam, but you want them to be squared out from the center front and back so that the lines are straight.
4. Cut along your new seam lines. Add 5/8” to the bottom of your two top pieces, and 5/8” to the top of each bottom piece by adding some extra paper underneath. This is for your seam allowance.
5. To assemble your top – start be sewing all of your top portion pieces together at the side seams (and shoulder seams). And then sew your bottom portion pieces together at the side seams. Sew the top to bottom, lining up the side seams. I would recommend using a french seam, so that you have a nice clean finish.
6. To make the placket – with wrong side facing you, fold your center front inwards 1/2”. Then turn your top around so that the right side is facing you. Fold in another 1 1/2″. Pin along the top edge to keep in place. Do this for each center front side.
7. Start pinning your bias tape along the neckline, just as normal. Remember, the right side of the top should still be facing you, with the right side of the bias tape facing down. Sew 1/4” from the edge, and trim close to edge.
8. Fold your bias tape towards the wrong side, and fold the bottom edge under to enclose the raw edge. At the same time, fold your placket around towards the wrong side.
9. Sew continuously, close to the edge, along the plackets and bias facing. Pivot at the corners.
10. Continue assembling the rest of your top at this time (armhole bias facing and hemming).
11. Mark and make your buttonholes and buttons. For mine, I made 3/4″ buttonholes (for 5/8” buttons), spaced 1 1/4″ apart. And I ended up with 8 buttons. Of course, you can make yours to your liking!
That’s it! C’est tout :)
