One of the things i love about pattern drafting is the math of it. I come from a strong math background, and the pure geometry of manipulating flat patterns brings me so much joy (nerd, whatever)
When i first began to delve into flat pattern making, i remember being blown away by the principles of dart manipulation – and today it’s still one of my favourite elements to explore.
The basic crux of it is this: a dart can be transferred to any position around the pivotal point of the bust, without altering the fit of the garment.
Why is this a big deal? It means that if you have a pattern of which you love everything except the dart positioning, you can change it. You can move that baby pretty much anywhere as long as it is pivoting around the bust point.
Lets have a look at it in practice.
I think it’s easiest to see with an example. Here is how you would transfer the dart on a basic bodice block from the waistline to the side seam.
Pretty awesome right?! And seriously – not hard. You can do it, i promise!
Honestly, the possibilities are endless – you can really move that dart anywhere around the bust point (pivotal point), until you get the look you want.
As a guide, here is what the basic bodice block pattern would look like for different standard dart placements.