Let’s talk about the Banksia Blouse Version 1 – the woven tee. It’s the most basic version of the Banksia blouse – with no placket and no collar. But it can be oh so beautiful.
Here I’ll show you all about the neckline finishing for this look. And I’ll also add a little bonus at the end – how to add the collar to this version (collar, but no placket)!
OK, let’s go…
We need to start my preparing our bias facing. A bias facing pattern piece is included with your pattern, but you could also use store bought bias tape if you’d like.
Fold your bias facing inhale lengthwise and press.
Fold one end in by 1/4″ and press.
Starting with the folded in end, start pinning the bias facing to your neckline edge, lining up the raw edges.
When you come all the way around and reach the folded end, overlap by 1″ and trim the excess.
Sew 1/4″ from the raw edge.
Trim your seam allowance. You can use the pinking shears trick so that you trim and notch at the same time!
Press the seam allowance towards the bias facing, and understitch.
Under stitching just means sewing seam allowance to a facing, close to the seam, so that it does not roll towards the front.
Turn the facing to the inside, press and pin.
Topstitch close to the edge. Press well.
But lets discuss something else quick…
Bonus // Now, what if you want to still attach the collar to your woven tee? Leaving off the placket means you will be left with a 1 1/4″ gap in the front of your top between the collar where the placket was. If that doesn’t bother you, great! You wouldn’t have to do anything to your collar pattern. But if you would like the collar to now meet in the middle – you will need to alter the collar pattern to be 1 1/4″ larger to fit.
To do this we will need to slash the collar pattern and extend. Though where you extend it will be important. I think it’s tempting to add the extra pattern paper at the centre back, but i think that will distort the fall of the collar.
So what I did is split that 1 1/4″ in half, and add 5/8″ to each side near the front. Draw slash lines anywhere near the front (mine were about 2 1/2″ from the edge.
Cut along those slash lines.
Add paper underneath, and tape in place so there is a 5/8″ gap.
Blend the collar lines together, cut, and repeat on the other side.
Cut out your collar fabric pieces and prepare as usual. Pin to your blouse neckline, making sure the ends butt up together in the middle. Sew, and then finish with the bias facing application exactly as described above.