When I first started sewing plackets – I thought the standard version was a tad cumbersome, so I decided to come up with my own way, the ‘easier way’ if you like. I think it’s a little easier than the standard version included in the Banksia instruction booklet- and I still use it a lot, because I just like it :) It’s not included in the instruction booklet, but I wanted to share it because I think you will like it too!
The most important thing about plackets is going slowly and preparing. If you haven’t done your basting yet – here’s the post from last week.
First, we’ll iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric (the left picture shows the right side of the placket, and the right shows the interfacing ironed to the wrong side). I like to use very very lightweight fusible. I feel like interfacing is really important as it adds a lot of stability to the placket and the buttonholes.
Fold the placket pieces in half with right sides together, and sew 5/8″ from the top edge.
Trim and notch the seam allowance.
Turn the right way round and press.
Place the placket pieces on the front piece on the right side of the fabric, so that the folded edges are facing the sides, and so that the raw edges are lined up with the centre cut edge inside the placket basting.
Sew the plackets to the front 5/8″ from the raw edge, along the basting stitches. Stop when you hit the horizontal basting stitches – about 5/8″ from the bottom.
Push the plackets through to the wrong side of the fabric (inside of the top), and also push through the triangle of seam allowance still attached to the top. On the right side make sure the right placket is lined up over the left, and pin in place for stability.
On the wrong side, pin the bottom of both placket pieces to the triangle of seam allowance. Sew along the horizontal line of basting stitches. Sometimes this is made easier by folding the top in half horizontally so that the bottom of the placket sticks out.
It should now look like the above pictures from the inside.
Time to finish the raw edges. For this top, I used my overlocker, but you could just use a zig-zag stitch or you could also bind the seams with bias tape, or rayon tape, or fold the seam allowance inwards to enclose the raw edges and top stitch.
The last step – this is optional, but I really like it. After pressing the placket, topstitch around the outside edge to keep the seam allowance flat – and I think it looks pretty!
Put in your buttons and buttonholes. Yay, we’re done!!!! You did it :)
LOOKING FOR MORE BANKSIA POSTS?
- Sewing: Darts & Seams
- Sewing: Basting & Placket prep
- Sewing: Collars
- Sewing: Collarless version
- Sewing: How to sew a placket
- Sewing: How to sew a placket the easier way (this post!)
- Sewing: How to sew a faux placket
- Sewing: Leaving the placket off
- Sewing: Flat sleeve insertion
- Sewing: Sleeveless version
- Sewing: Long-sleeved version
- Sewing: Hemming
- Sewing: Dress version
- Sewing: Jersey version
Some other tutorials you might like to check out:
- Pattern Alterations: How to turn the pattern into a dress
- Pattern Alterations: Altering bust dart height
- Pattern Alterations: Bust adjustments (FBA and SBA)
- Pattern Alterations: Lengthen the sleeves
- Pattern Alterations: Drafting different collars
- Pattern Alterations: Alter the pattern for stretch fabrics