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MN2102 Banksia / Sewalongs / Sewing Techniques / Tips & Tutorials

Banksia sewalong: flat sleeve insertion

how to do a flat sleeve insertion on the Banksia Blouse // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design DiarySince the Banksia‘s instruction booklet covers the inset sleeve method (and we did a tutorial for that here), I thought it might be nice to show a different sleeve insertion this time.

Sometimes I like to mix up how I do things to stop myself getting bored – so when I get tired of inset sleeves, this is the method I use. Actually I’d say I use this most often for knits.

Okie dokie, here we go:

how to do a flat sleeve insertion on the Banksia Blouse // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design DiaryAs per usual we’ll sew a row of basting stitches along the sleeve cap. Leave the ends loose so that you can gather the fabric very slightly to easy it into the arm hole.

how to do a flat sleeve insertion on the Banksia Blouse // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design DiaryRemember we’ve only sewn the shoulder seams so far. So lets lay the top flat and open with the right side of the fabric facing upwards.

Lay the sleeve right side facing down, and pin from under arm to underarm, shaping the sleeve into the armsyce as you go.

how to do a flat sleeve insertion on the Banksia Blouse // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diaryhow to do a flat sleeve insertion on the Banksia Blouse // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design DiarySew the sleeve seam, and then finish the raw edges.

how to do a flat sleeve insertion on the Banksia Blouse // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design DiaryPress the sleeve seam towards the sleeve.

how to do a flat sleeve insertion on the Banksia Blouse // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diaryhow to do a flat sleeve insertion on the Banksia Blouse // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design DiaryThe cool thing about doing the sleeve this way, is that you can now sew the sleeve side seam, and shirt side seam all in one go!

Turn the top inside out so that the right sides are facing each other, and line up the side seams. Pin in place, then sew and neaten the edges.

All done!

About Author

Holly writes part time for the Megan Nielsen blog– sewing like crazy, creating tutorials and sewalongs. She has been sewing since she was a little girl, and has her degree in apparel design. Now she’s a stay at home mama, and spends all her free nap times at her sewing machine.

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Nessie
Nessie
9 years ago

Your tutorials simplify sewing techniques so succinctly. They are incredibly easy to follow and the photographs illustrate your points perfectly. Thank you, Megan :)

Liz
Liz
9 years ago

Ditto that Nessie! Megan, I am LOVING this sewalong. I’m not an experienced seamstress but the pattern booklet and the tutorials are making it very easy for me to get my head around what I am supposed to do. Bloody loving it! And super-keen to try your other patterns after this one.

Vernelle
9 years ago

Perfect example of the technique. I learned how to put sleeves in the old fashioned way. It wasn’t until I started making clothes for my son that I even attempted flat construction. Now I use it for almost everything. Thanks for sharing.

Stephanie
Stephanie
9 years ago

I was wondering if there is a ‘quality’ difference between this insertion method and the other one? I always find it difficult matching up the side seams and the sleeve seams,and this one looks so much easier.

Thanks!

Meg
Admin
Meg
9 years ago
Reply to  Stephanie

That’s a really good point Stephanie!! I don’t know the answer – but i lean towards thinking that there shouldn’t be a quality difference. When i first tried this method i was sure it wouldnt be as good, but after gaining more experience i found that the flat method is more of an industry/manufacturing method – which makes me think the quality must be the same if not better than the inset sleeve?
But yeah, i totally agree – this one for sure feels easier!!
xoxo

Toni
9 years ago
Reply to  Meg

Just reading through comments and thought I would show you a great blog post on this topic.. (looking at the title, it doesn’t really seem related though lol)
http://fashion-incubator.com/archive/a-better-way-to-sew-linings-and-facings/

So yes there is a quality difference, but I think you may not really notice anytime except in tailored garments.

Fran
Fran
8 years ago

Thanks for this tutorial! I used it on a shirt I made today, and it was so much easier and faster!I am wearing my new blouse now, and am extremely pleased with it. I also made a facing for the neck, instead of their little collar thing, lengthened the blouse 5inches and extended and belled out the sleeves. That is more changing to a pattern than I have ever done, and I am really happy with it. Thanks for helping with your wonderful tutorial!

Fran
Fran
8 years ago

BTW, as for quality, this shirt looks better than the ones I have done the traditional way, but it’s not a tailored garment either.