Ok, so let’s talk about how to sew and attach the collar and finish the neckline of Banksia Version 3, shall we? (If you’re making the placket with no collar of Version 2, see this post here. If you’re making the woven tee of version 1, go here).
I love this collar. Peter pan collars make me weak, and this one is my all-time favourite. It has a little bit of roll in it and sits beautifully on the shoulders. I love it :)
Let’s look at how to put it together, with a few tips!
Once you’ve cut out your collar pieces, it’s time to attach interfacing to one of them. If your fabric is quite stiff, you could probably skip this step – but to be honest I almost never do. The most important thing is that you use very lightweight interfacing. If you use a regular weight or something very stiff, you are going to end up with bat wings around your neck :) Personally, I favour the lightest weight fusible.
Now lay your collars on top of each other with right sides facing each other, and pin in place.
Now it’s time to notch the heck outta that curve or you could grade the seam allowance right back. But my personal trick to getting a perfect curve is pinking shears. I grade the seam allowance back using them, and that way the whole thing is notched and graded. So sneaky :) I love this method.
Turn it the right way round and press! Do not skip the pressing or I will yell at you :) I’m serious, people who don’t press their collars make me cry – it’s the quickest way to make your collar suck, and make it completely obvious you made your shirt. Don’t skip the pressing! pretty please :)
Now we pin the collar to the top. The important thing here is to make sure the edge of the collar butts right up to the intersection of the placket basting stitches and the neckline staystitching.
Sew in place 1/4” from the raw edge.
Next, we will finish the neckline with a bias facing.
Note: A pattern piece for a bias-facing strip is provided, but you could also use store-bought bias tape if you would like.
If you are using the pattern to make your own bias facing, let’s prepare it.
With wrong sides together, fold your bias strip in half lengthwise and press flat.
Pin your bias facing around the neckline. You will be lining up the raw edges of the folded facing with the raw edge of the neckline/collar.
It’s important that the ends of the bias facing extend past the collar edge and basting stitches by 1/2”. Trim off any excess.
Sew 1/4” from the raw edge.
Please take note: we are doing all of this on the right side of the fabric.
Trim back the seam allowance. You can use the same pinking shear method that I mentioned before!
Press the scant seam allowance towards the facing, and understitch.
Understitching just means stitching the seam allowance to a facing, close to the seam, to prevent the facing from rolling to the outside.
Now fold the bias facing towards the inside of the top (wrong side of the fabric) enclosing the raw edges. Iron it down, and pin in place.
When you pin in place make sure the collar is out of the way. We are not using the bias strip as a binding, we are using it as a facing, so we want it to lay flat on the inside of the top and not be visible from the outside.
Sew in place close to the edge of the facing.
Press and you’re done!! It should now look like the photo above on the inside, and look like the photo below on the outside – visible topstitching, but hidden under the collar.
I can’t wait to add the placket!!
Get ready because tomorrow we’ll be learning one of the methods for inserting the placket :) so fun!!
LOOKING FOR MORE BANKSIA POSTS?
- Sewing: Darts & Seams
- Sewing: Basting & Placket prep
- Sewing: How to sew the collar
- Sewing: Collarless version
- Sewing: How to sew a placket
- Sewing: How to sew a placket the easier way
- Sewing: How to sew a faux placket
- Sewing: Leaving the placket off
- Sewing: Flat sleeve insertion
- Sewing: Sleeveless version
- Sewing: Long-sleeved version
- Sewing: Hemming
- Sewing: Dress version
- Sewing: Jersey version
Some other tutorials you might like to check out:
- Pattern Alterations: How to turn the pattern into a dress
- Pattern Alterations: Altering bust dart height
- Pattern Alterations: Bust adjustments (FBA and SBA)
- Pattern Alterations: Lengthen the sleeves
- Pattern Alterations: Drafting different collars
- Pattern Alterations: Alter the pattern for stretch fabrics