Let’s discuss Version 2 of the Banksia. Version 2 has a placket, but no collar. The neckline finishing is pretty much exactly the same as discussed here for Version 3 with a neckline facing, but we will review it here anyway. If you’re looking to do a placket-less version (Version 1), see here.
I love doing a collarless version – it’s honestly so easy, and results in a very different-looking top.
Let’s chat about how to do it…
The basic idea is the same as when we have the collar there – just pretend it isn’t!
Note: A pattern piece for a bias-facing strip is provided, but you could also use store-bought bias tape if you would like.
Prepare your bias facing.
With wrong sides together, fold your bias strip in half lengthwise and press flat.
Pin your bias facing around the neckline. You will be lining up the raw edges of the folded facing with the raw edge of the neckline.
It’s important that the ends of the bias facing extend past the collar edge and basting stitches by 1/2”. Trim off any excess.
Sew 1/4” from the raw edge.
Please take note: we are doing all of this on the right side of the fabric.
Trim back the seam allowance. You can use pinking shears to both trim and notch at the same time!
Press the scant seam allowance towards the facing, and understitch.
Understitching just means stitching the seam allowance to a facing, close to the seam, to prevent the facing from rolling to the outside.
Now fold the bias facing towards the inside of the top (wrong side of the fabric) enclosing the raw edges. Iron it down, and pin in place.
We are not using the bias strip as a binding, we are using it as a facing, so we want it to lay flat on the inside of the top and not be visible from the outside.
Sew in place close to the edge of the facing.
Thats it! There will be visible topstitching from the outside. So if that’s not your thing, you could hand slipstitch the facing down.
LOOKING FOR MORE BANKSIA POSTS?
- Sewing: Darts & Seams
- Sewing: Basting & Placket prep
- Sewing: Collars
- Sewing: Collarless Version 2 neckline facing (this post!)
- Sewing: How to sew a placket
- Sewing: How to sew a placket the easier way
- Sewing: How to sew a faux placket
- Sewing: Leaving the placket off
- Sewing: Flat sleeve insertion
- Sewing: Sleeveless version
- Sewing: Long-sleeved version
- Sewing: Hemming
- Sewing: Dress version
- Sewing: Jersey version
Some other tutorials you might like to check out:
- Pattern Alterations: How to turn the pattern into a dress
- Pattern Alterations: Altering bust dart height
- Pattern Alterations: Bust adjustments (FBA and SBA)
- Pattern Alterations: Lengthen the sleeves
- Pattern Alterations: Drafting different collars
- Pattern Alterations: Alter the pattern for stretch fabrics