It’s a little unfair that small bust adjustments don’t get talked about as often as Full Bust Adjustments (FBA) – they’re just as easy and just as not-scary. hehehe
Much like the FBA tutorial we covered this morning – small bust adjustments (SBA) are nothing to be afraid of. Before we start lets ask some of the same questions:
WHAT THE HECK IS IT??
Most patterns are drafted on a B cup – so if you are smaller than a B cup you may end up having trouble fitting patterns. You’ll probably need to alter your pattern to get the right fit over your bust – when we’re talking about reducing the bust of a pattern that’s called a small bust adjustment.
DO I NEED TO DO ONE??
How do you know if you need to do an SBA on your pattern?
Easy! You know that nifty size chart you get on the back of your pattern envelope? If you find that your bust measurement falls in a smaller size column than the rest of your body – then you’ll probably need to do one. If you’ve already made a muslin, you might notice you need to do an SBA because things just aren’t quite right in that area. Some symptoms may include
- excess fabric and sagging around the bust area (oh dear!)
- the bodice of your dress being too large around your bust, even though it fits perfectly over the rest of your body
- the dart apex hitting you too low
CALCULATE THE SIZE OF YOUR SBA
Calculating the size of your SBA is similar to what we did this morning for FBA. It’s easy as pie. Just figure out what size you would be if you used your bust measurement – then compare it to what size you would be if you used your other measurements to determine your size. On the bodice front of the pattern, measure the distance between these sizes. This is your SBA amount! We will be reducing the bust by that much.
For example, if you fall in a size x-small for your bust measurement, but fit into the size small category for the rest of your measurements, then you would measure the difference between the x-small and small front pattern pieces. What ever the difference is, you would use that number as your SBA and use the small pattern piece to create it.
DRAW YOUR SLASH LINES
- First extend the dart apex along the centre fold line by 3cm (about 1 1/8 inch). We’ll call this line 1. This should be your centre bust. Mark this point.
- Next draw a line from this point to your armsyce, about 1/3 of the way in. (this is line 2)
- Draw a line down from your centre bust straight over to the side seam(line 3)
- Draw a line perpendicular to grainline about 1/2 way down the dart This line (4) should hit the Line 1 and edge of the pattern.
CUT AND OVERLAP
// LOOKING FOR MORE TUTORIALS? //
Here’s the full list of Darling Ranges tutorials:
- Project preparation
- Pattern alterations: full bust adjustment
- Pattern alterations: small bust adjustment
- Pattern alterations: lengthen the bodice
- Pattern alterations: raise the neckline
- Pattern alterations: rounded neckline
- Pattern alterations: fishtail hem
- Pattern alterations: add darts to the back bodice pattern piece
- Sewing & construction: Bodice & darts
- Sewing & construction: Skirt & pockets
- Sewing & construction: Attaching the skirt & bodice
- Sewing & construction: Placket & Neckline
- Sewing & construction: Sleeveless version
- Sewing & construction: Attaching the sleeves
- Sewing & construction: Hemming
- Sewing & construction: Ties & beltloops
- Sewing & construction: Closures
- Sewing and Construction: Sleeveless variation
- Sewing and Construction: Dartless Versions (V2 &V3)