The Darling Ranges dress is a high waisted dress – this means that the waistline of the dress sits above your natural waistline. On most people it should sit somewhere just under the ribcage.
If you prefer to have a lower waistband (probably helpful if you like belting your clothing!), here’s how you to lengthen the bodice. I’ve also added a bit at the end about shortening it even more / lengthening the skirt to create a cute maternity dress!
Ready? lets do this!
Draw a line across the front bodice piece that is perpendicular to the grainline and the placket fold lines. Make sure to draw it about halfway through the dart. You don’t want to go to high and fish messing with the apex.
Cut along the line you just drew – then spread the pattern by how much longer you wish the bodice to be. In this example I lengthened the bodice by 1″. Make sure you keep those lines parallel! Add some more pattern paper to the back and tape in place. Then true the side seamline.
Re-draw your dart legs and trim the excess pattern paper on the side. And your front bodice piece is done!
Don’t forget that if you lengthen the front bodice piece, you need to lengthen the back by the same amount! Once again, draw a line through the middle perpendicular to the grainline and centre fold line.
Slash along that line, spread the pieces by the amount you are lengthening the bodice (for this example 1″), then tape it all together, true the side seamline, and trim the excess paper.
SHORTENED BODICE / MATERNITY WEAR
Wouldn’t this dress be really cute over a bump? You can shorten the bodice the same way you lengthen it. Draw your perpendicular line through the middle of the dart and slash. This time, instead of spreading, overlap by the amount you want to shorten.
Don’t forget to do the same thing to the back!
Again, redraw your dart legs.
Now, to accommodate for the shortened bodice and growing bump, you’ll want to lengthen the skirt so the dress doesn’t end up being too short. Fortunately, the Skirt piece is just a big rectangle, so its really easy to length. Just add some paper to the bottom, making sure to keep everything even and straight.
Seriously, that’s it!
// LOOKING FOR MORE TUTORIALS? //
Here’s the full list of Darling Ranges tutorials:
- Project preparation
- Pattern alterations: full bust adjustment
- Pattern alterations: small bust adjustment
- Pattern alterations: lengthen the bodice
- Pattern alterations: raise the neckline
- Pattern alterations: rounded neckline
- Pattern alterations: fishtail hem
- Pattern alterations: add darts to the back bodice pattern piece
- Sewing & construction: Bodice & darts
- Sewing & construction: Skirt & pockets
- Sewing & construction: Attaching the skirt & bodice
- Sewing & construction: Placket & Neckline
- Sewing & construction: Sleeveless version
- Sewing & construction: Attaching the sleeves
- Sewing & construction: Hemming
- Sewing & construction: Ties & beltloops
- Sewing & construction: Closures
- Sewing and Construction: Sleeveless variation
- Sewing and Construction: Dartless Versions (V2 &V3)
Don’t have the Darling Ranges sewing pattern yet? Get it in store here! We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNdarlingranges and @megannielsenpatterns if sharing on social media.
Maravilha!
This is a completely different pattern piece than what I downloaded. The dart comes from the bottom, not the side on pattern piece #1. Can you show how to adjust it with that pattern piece?
Hi Mandy! Yes you have the updated Darling Ranges dress which includes an additional variation than the original pattern :)
The method for lengthening the updated pattern with the waist dart, is pretty much the same. Just slash horizontally through the pattern (you will be cutting through the dart) – then when you spread the pattern pieces to make the bodice longer, you will have to redraw the dart legs. All this involves is drawing from the dart apex down to where each dart leg meets the waistline.
I hope that helps!!
xoxo
[…] Pattern alterations: lengthen the bodice […]
[…] Ok, so now your side seam is actually going to be a little bit shorter (thanks to line 3 overlapping). Darling Ranges already is already a shorter/high waist bodice. So a little bit shorter may not really make much difference to you. If it doesn’t bother you, than all you need to do is shorten the back bodice too to match. Draw a line perpendicular to the grain line on the back bodice piece. Cut across it, and overlap (keep it even!) so that the side seam matches up with the front side seam. Tape in place. Another option, if you really don’t want the bodice any shorter, is to then lengthen the bodice using this tutorial. […]
[…] Pattern alterations: lengthen the bodice […]
[…] Pattern alterations: lengthen the bodice […]
[…] Pattern alterations: lengthen the bodice […]
[…] Pattern alterations: lengthen the bodice […]