This is a last-minute addition – but as I was making my samples for the sewalong I realised this might be an interesting and super easy variation for View A; how to add darts to the back bodice!
As people have been making their Darling Ranges dresses I’ve noticed a couple have been leaving off the ties at the back so they can more easily belt the dress. The downside is that the dress is designed to be used with ties, so it was created with a lot of ease in the back – which means leaving out the ties can result in a less fitted – bordering on baggy – dress.
So I thought why not show you all how to add darts to the back of your dress to make it more fitted if you decide to leave off the ties? Awesome right? I think so.
Please keep in mind that the exact measurements and position of the dart I show here can’t be taken too literally. The specifics will probably differ for different sizes and body shapes – so this like anything is intended as a guide. Those closer to the higher end of their size bracket will need smaller darts – those closer to the lower end of their size bracket will need larger darts. Each dart will probably be somewhere between 1 to 2 inches wide at the base.
The first thing you want to do is consult the finished garment measurements on the back of your envelope or instruction booklet. Take the finished waistline measurement and minus your body waistline measurement. This is how much ease is built into the pattern. I decided I wanted my dress snug around the waist, so I eliminated all but 1/2″ of ease. I wear a size Small and have a 28″ waist – so for me that left 2″ of extra ease that needed to be eliminated with darts – two 1″ darts at the waistline.
To make it easy I placed the centre of my dart at the marking on the pattern (which is intended for the tie placement) and extended it up so that my finished dart would be 6″ long. I marked the dart legs 1/2″ away from the centre dart line on each side, and then drew the lines. Again, this is just an example. Your measurements and placement may vary.
Add extra pattern paper.
Fold the dart, and true the waistline by trimming in a straight line.
A COUPLE OF NOTES
- Don’t forget that this dart placement is based on my body and personal preferences. You may not like darts as long as this and also for sizes larger than S you will more than likely want to place your dart further along towards the side seam.
- Also, please keep in mind that this method is only intended for the Darling Ranges, since it has so much ease built into the back piece – if you are wanting to add darts to a different pattern, you will need to slash and spread your pattern to add in the dart.
LOOKING FOR MORE TUTORIALS?
Here’s the full list of Darling Ranges tutorials:
- Project preparation
- Pattern alterations: full bust adjustment
- Pattern alterations: small bust adjustment
- Pattern alterations: lengthen the bodice
- Pattern alterations: raise the neckline
- Pattern alterations: rounded neckline
- Pattern alterations: fishtail hem
- Pattern alterations: add darts to the back bodice pattern piece
- Sewing & construction: Bodice & darts
- Sewing & construction: Skirt & pockets
- Sewing & construction: Attaching the skirt & bodice
- Sewing & construction: Placket & Neckline
- Sewing & construction: Sleeveless version
- Sewing & construction: Attaching the sleeves
- Sewing & construction: Hemming
- Sewing & construction: Ties & beltloops
- Sewing & construction: Closures
- Sewing and Construction: Sleeveless variation
- Sewing and Construction: Dartless Versions (V2 &V3)