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Pattern Alterations & Adjustments / Tips & Tutorials

Easy Pattern Grading – The “Quick and Dirty” Method


By special request, I’m reposting this tutorial I made a few years ago – it’s cleaned up a bit, and has a few more diagrams – so hopefully easier to follow!
There are obviously a number of methods for pattern grading. The most professional and accurate (for the home sewer) is probably the slash & spread method. But I find this a little painful for casual projects as it takes more time, and involves cutting the pattern in numerous places and shifting it out.
My preference if I’m short on time, and I’m not worried about it being “perfect” is to simply shift the pattern, tracing as I go. I know it probably isn’t the most “text book” method, but it’s easy, fast & it works…


For this tutorial I am using the example of a pattern I recently graded down.

Determine how much you need to grade your pattern by. Compare your measurements to the pattern’s. As a side note, my pattern was a size 14 to fit bust 36”, which would appear to be perfect for me as I have a 36” bust.
But I find that commercial patterns have too much ease for my taste, so I always go down a size. So I wanted to grade down to a size 12, ie 34” bust. Which meant I needed to grade down by 2”. Divide this measurement by 4 to determine how much to shift each pattern piece. For me this was ½” (ie 2 divided by 4)

Lay the pattern piece on some pattern paper (I’m using the bodice front), and trace the centre & bottom edges.

Then shift the pattern outwards by ½” from the bottom right corner edge

Trace the rest of the pattern

Neaten up the edges, and now you have a smaller bodice front pattern. Follow the steps for the other pattern pieces as well, and then you are done!


Determine how much you need to grade your pattern by. Compare your measurements to the pattern’s. Let’s continue using the example from above, but this time lets assume we need to grade up by 2”. Divide this measurement by 4 to determine how much to shift each pattern piece. For me this was ½” (ie 2 divided by 4)

Lay the pattern piece on some pattern paper (I’m using the bodice front), and trace the centre & bottom edges.

Then shift the pattern inwards by ½” from the bottom right corner edge

Trace the rest of the pattern

Neaten up the edges, and now you have a larger bodice front pattern. Follow the steps for the other pattern pieces as well, and then you are done!

Note:

  • If you need to grade the pattern by an uneven amount (ie the difference between your size and the pattern is not the same in the bust waist & hip- this is probably the case if you are pear shaped), I find the easiest way is to separate the pattern & grade the areas separately, then blend the two sections together
  • Another thing to keep in mind is your cup size. Commercial patterns are based on a B cup, so if you are smaller or large than that, you will probably need to do a bust adjustment (not covered in this tutorial).
  • Also this method is just as easily adapted to grading a skirt or any other pattern piece
About Author

Meg is the Founder and Creative Director of Megan Nielsen Patterns, and is constantly dreaming up ideas for new sewing patterns and ways to make your sewing journey more enjoyable! She gets really excited about design details and is always trying to add way too many variations to our patterns.

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sandra
10 years ago

Megan, we seriously need to become bff’s. You are so informative and inspiring. Thank you!

Deborah
Deborah
10 years ago

Isn’t it bigger, not smaller?

angelina
angelina
10 years ago

How do you grade the bust size up?? I’m a DD- you see why I have issues…. :P

angelina
angelina
10 years ago
Reply to  Meg

lovely:):)

Shelly
10 years ago

Megan, I’m definitely giving this method a try. It looks simple enough for me to get my head around. Thanks

deirdre_lyon
deirdre_lyon
10 years ago

Not to overstate, but this could be a real gamechanger in terms of things I’m willing to try. Thank you so much, Megan!

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[…] perfect, if only they were just a little bit bigger or a teeny bit smaller. Well, this simplified pattern grading tutorial from Megan at Megan Nielsen Design Diary will show you a fast method for sizing a top pattern up or […]

Ashley Win
10 years ago

Great Tutorial Im interested in grading the bust up as well…. DD club here as well lol.

Meghan
10 years ago

This is so fabulous!

Manisha Mishra
Manisha Mishra
10 years ago

Hi!Megan, I’m trying to find the follow up tutorial for up-grading a bra pattern to DD or above. please could you mention the link?

Jan
Jan
10 years ago

This is great information! I can’t wait to try it on a blouse for my daughter. The smallest size the pattern came in was a 10 and she needs a 6-8.

Sergio M. Arroyo
Sergio M. Arroyo
10 years ago

Thank you very much for this clear tutorial. I’m going to grade up and down a children’s pattern and this tutorial helped a lot.

Lynn Whittington
Lynn Whittington
9 years ago

Thankyou so much, this is SO quick and simple. Id forgotten everything Id previously learnt a few years back and was seriously stuck, I googled ‘easy pattern grading’ and found this instantly. :-)

Lynn Whittington
Lynn Whittington
9 years ago

Had to grade a size 8 to a size 12,14 and 16 and using this method, the armhole stayed the same size and the neck became massive…am I doing something wrong?

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[…] at InstructablesThe Seam Method of Pattern Alteration by Judith Rasband, author of Fabulous FitEasy Pattern Grading by megan nielsen design diaryPattern Grading by Elegant MusingsSmall Bust Adjustment by […]

nymph
nymph
8 years ago

thank you very much and happy halloween :)

Michelle
Michelle
8 years ago

But don’t the armholes/neck/shoulders need to be graded as well? Someone that is smaller will need smaller arm/neckholes/shoulders than someone who is larger…

Dee Dee
Dee Dee
8 years ago

Thank you so much for this tutorial!
I am trying to down grade a very simple top and skirt for to fit my 15-year old daughter.

This is perfect!

Sally
Sally
3 years ago

Wow, this is super easy, just what I like. I have seen other tutorials but they are so complicated I lose interest within a minute or so. I will definitely use your method. Thanks for sharing.