Briar Sewalong: Hemming

February 9th, 2013

Time to hem those Briar’s baby!

Hemming knits is not as hard as you’d think :) I think the greatest tool in your arsenal is a twin needle – a bit more about them in this post. If you don’t have one – no stress! You can still sew the hem with a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine.

Oh and please heat up your iron- because we shall use it. Okie dokie i’ve rambled enough – lets do this!

As with any other hemming – preparation is the key to a neat finish. Measure your hem correctly – turn under 1/2″ and press. This will help make sure your hem is nice and even – and sometimes (ok fine, this time) i don’t even use pins if the pressing is really good

Your sleeves are straight so it’s pretty straight forward – but for the main hemline, just conform the hem to the curve as you are pressing. Knit is very forgiving and will conform if you help it along.

And then top stitch! As i mentioned before, i used a twin needle – they should be easily found in most sewing stores, but if you can’t find one, there’s always amazon.

If you don’t have one, go for the zig zag stitch – i personal think it’s a pretty cute stitch, and looks rather nice :)

Any questions my darlings?!

That’s the end of the basic Briar construction, next week we begin our variations!!!! SO EXCITED!!!

9 Responses

  1. Sarah says:

    Hi, Thanks for this it is very handy!

    Do you have any tips for altering a thick woollen jumper/knit? I find that when sewing the part where it’s sewed become thick and stiff and really takes away from the softness of the jumper.

  2. Jo says:

    Hi Megan! Great posts so far, thank you! I was wondering if you had any thoughts to share on fit for knit garments? I always have to do an FBA and narrow back adjustment, and my first go at this confirms the Briar is no exception. Frustrating as I’d hoped the stretch would forgive me for not bothering, but no.

    Once I’ve got it perfected though, I’ll be trying lots of different versions, so yay for the variations! I’m really looking forward to seeing what’s next!

  3. I’ve had problems with wavy hems in the past, so now-a-days I always use a extremely fine fusible knit stay tape for all my knit hems. It’s cut on the bias so it goes around curves a treat. Happy days.

  4. Karen says:

    Sometimes when I hem with a twin needle I get a sort of ridge between the two lines of stitching…does anyone have any tips for preventing this…

    • Rebecca says:

      I’m not sure if you’ve already found a solution to this, since it’s been a while. When I have this issue I can usually correct by adjusting my needle tension. Whenever I use my twin needle I like to take a scrap of the same fabric I’m about to sew and experiment until I get the tension right for that weight. In general I’ve found increasing the needle tension will keep your straight stitches more in place and help the bobbin zig zag along the underside. Be careful going too tight on the upper needles, though, or you’ll lose the stretchiness for your knit. With most lighter knits I use a +2 tension, but your fabric and machine may vary. :)

    • Rebecca says:

      Karen: I’m not sure if you’ve already found a solution to this, since it’s been a while. When I have this issue I can usually correct by adjusting my needle tension. Whenever I use my twin needle I like to take a scrap of the same fabric I’m about to sew and experiment until I get the tension right for that weight. In general I’ve found increasing the needle tension will keep your straight stitches more in place and help the bobbin zig zag along the underside. Be careful going too tight on the upper needles, though, or you’ll lose the stretchiness for your knit. With most lighter knits I use a +2 tension, but your fabric and machine may vary. :)

  5. Sarah h says:

    When I have made the Briar, I have had problems making a nice edge where the sides meet at the hemline. Seems pointy and not smoothly rounded. Any ideas? Also, using the double needle can make waves but I find if you make the stitch length longer, it helps. I also have tried another tip of putting tracing paper underneath while sewing and then just pulling it off after you have finished the hem. This did work but a pain to clean up all those bits of paper after.

  6. Katy says:

    Thank you so much for your tips on sewing with knits. I haven’t been following your sewalong as I don’t have the pattern but have just made a top from my own design and found these tips – especially about the neckline binding invaluable! I’m so proud of how my top looks, so thank you. I mentioned your posts in my blog http://www.sleeksilhouette.com :)I think I need some more practice, so I’m looking forward to having another go!
    xx

  7. [...] result the best out of all the choices – it’s a very neat finish), and her post on hemming. Her Briar Sewalong just finished, but you can check out all of her Sewalong posts right here [...]