Banksia Sewalong: How to sew a placket the easier way

October 9th, 2012

When i first started sewing plackets – i thought the standard version was a tad cumbersome, so i decided to come up with my own way. I think it’s a little easier than the standard version- and i still use it a lot, because i just like it :) I think you will too! (for reference this is method 1 in the Banksia instruction booklet)

Ready?

The most important thing about plackets is going slowly and preparing. If you haven’t done your basting yet – you here’s the post from last week.

First we’ll iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric (the left picture shows the right side of the placket, and the right shows the interfacing ironed to the wrong side). I like to use very very lightweight fusible. I feel like interfacing is really important as it adds a lot of stability to the placket and the buttonholes.

Fold the placket pieces in half with right sides together, and sew 5/8″ from the top edge.

Trim and notch the seam allowance

Turn the right way round and press

Place the placket pieces on the front piece on the right side of the fabric, so that the folded edges are facing the sides, and so that the raw edges are lined up with the centre cut edge inside the placket basting.

Sew the plackets to the front 5/8″ from the raw edge, along the basting stitches. Stop when you hit the horizontal basting stitches – about 5/8″ from the bottom.

Push the plackets through to the wrong side of the fabric (inside of the top), and also push through the triangle of seam allowance still attached to the top. On the right side make sure the right placket is lined up over the left, and pin in place for stability.

On the wrong side, pin the bottom of both placket pieces to the triangle of seam allowance. Sew along the horizontal line of basting stitches. Sometimes this is made easier by folding the top in half horizontally so that the bottom of the placket sticks out.

It should now look like the above picture

Time to finish the raw edges. For this top I used my overlocker, but you could just use a zig zag stitch or you could also bind the seams with bias tape, or rayon tape, or fold the seam allowance inwards to enclose the raw edges and top stitch.

Last step – this is optional, but i really like it. After pressing the placket, topstitch around the outside edge to keep the seam allowance flat – and i think it looks pretty!

Put in your buttons and buttonholes. Yay we’re done!!!! You did it :)

9 Responses

  1. katie says:

    these are great directions – thank you! I’ve barely begun my top but I think things will go a lot faster for me with the sew along to reference

    • Meg says:

      Hi Katie!! That’s great! That’s i love about sewalongs, and detailed tutorials – everyone can go at their own pace, and you can always come back to read the posts again :)

      Good luck with your top!!

      XOXO

  2. Kim says:

    I love this method! To be honest I like it so much I havent tried the other one :P

    • Meg says:

      Hehehehehe fair enough!! Honestly, i really love this method, and i think i probably still use it more than the other one. I think it’s possibly also because it’s a bit more a subtle look?

      hugs! xoxo

  3. katherine landreneau says:

    Beautiful work! Love your fabric choice!

    • Meg says:

      Thanks Katherine! I really love this linen too! I think it’s going to be great in summer – and the brocade collar certainly makes a feel a little dressier! XOXO

  4. Tascha says:

    Hey!
    I have a little question, one which side is the placket with the interfacing? The one on the top or the one underneath? And which one is on top, left or right?
    Thank you!

    • Meg says:

      Hi Tascha!

      Both placket pieces have are interfaced – i just showed one in the photo so you could see the difference. And when you are putting it together the right placket goes on top of the left.

      I hope that helps!!

      xoxo

  5. Carol says:

    Love your site. So useful…do you lay the plackets differently for men’s clothes? Do you have any videos yet?
    Thanks
    x