Sometimes i like to mix up how i do things to stop myself getting bored – so when i get tired of inset sleeves, this is the method i use. Actually i’d say i use this most often for knits.
Okie dokie, here we go:
As per usual we’ll sew a row of basting stitches along the sleeve cap. Leave the ends loose so that you can gather the fabric very slightly to easy it into the arm hole.
Remember we’ve only sewn the shoulder seams so far. So lets lay the top flat and open with the right side of the fabric facing upwards.
Lay the sleeve right side facing down, and pin from under arm to underarm, shaping the sleeve into the armsyce as you go.
Sew the sleeve seam, and then finish the raw edges
Press the sleeve seam towards the sleeve
The cool thing about doing the sleeve this way, is that you can now sew the sleeve side seam, and shirt side seam all in one go!
Turn the top inside out so that the right sides are facing each other, and line up the side seams. Pin in place, then sew and neaten the edges.