It’s a little unfair that small bust adjustments don’t get talked about as often as Full Bust Adjustments (FBA) – they’re just as easy and just as not-scary. hehehe
Much like the FBA tutorial we covered this morning – small bust adjustments (SBA) are nothing to be afraid of. Before we start lets ask some of the same questions:
Most patterns are drafted on a B cup – so if you are smaller than a B cup you may end up having trouble fitting patterns. You’ll probably need to alter your pattern to get the right fit over your bust – when we’re talking about reducing the bust of a pattern that’s called a small bust adjustment.
How do you know if you need to do an SBA on your pattern?
Easy! You know that nifty size chart you get on the back of your pattern envelope? If you find that your bust measurement falls in a smaller size column than the rest of your body – then you’ll probably need to do one. If you’ve already made a muslin, you might notice you need to do an SBA because things just aren’t quite right in that area. Some symptoms may include
- excess fabric and sagging around the bust area (oh dear!)
- the bodice of your dress being too large around your bust, even though it fits perfectly over the rest of your body
- the dart apex hitting you too low
- First extend the dart apex along the centre fold line by 1 inch. (we’ll call this line 1) This should be your centre bust. Mark this point.
- Next draw a line from this point to your armsyce, about 1/3 of the way in. (this is line 2) Conveniently, the circular markers on the armsyce are pretty much 1/3 of the way up.
- Draw a line down from your centre bust straight down – alone the grainline. This line should be parallel to the fold guide lines on your placket front (line 3)
- Draw a line perpendicular to grainline about 1/2 way down the placket (it doesn’t matter too much where you draw this line, just don’t go too high and interfere with your dart). This line (4) should hit the Line 3 and edge of the pattern
- This adjustment will change the size of the waistline (ie make it smaller) so you may need to make an adjustment at the waistline to maintain your correct size
- You might not need to do a bust adjustment at all! You lucky B cup you :)
- If you have the opposite problem and need to do a Full Bust Adjustment instead – then checkout this tutorial