(Note: this post is meant more as an open discussion, rather than a set tutorial since I’m experimenting with untested adjustments. So basically, all the following pictures and diagrams are for discussion purposes and have not be fully tested)
After yesterdays posts, there are a few more things I want to talk about with respect to bust adjustments. One of the glaring issues (in my opinion) with the traditional Full Bust Adjustment (and Small Bust Adjustment) that we chatted about yesterday is the fact that these adjustments change the size of the waistline. The FBA will make the waistline larger, and the SBA will make the waistline smaller. Now the infuriating thing about that is that you will now need to adjust the waistline.
To be perfectly honest, these bust adjustments have always bothered me for this reason. But since I never need to do any adjustments for myself, I’ve never pursued the issue further – until today. I understand that theoretically the reason you need to keep the slash lines parallel is to maintain the grainline of the pattern and so you don’t mess with the shape and drape of the bodice – but it still doesn’t make sense to me that we increase the waistline and then need to alter it. So I wondered, what happens when you don’t keep the horizontal slash lines parallel, and instead pivot at the waistline, only increasing the dart?
Here’s what i did.
I started out by following the exact same methodology as detailed in yesterdays FBA post – except that this time instead of keeping the horizontal slash lines parallel, I pivoted at the waistline and allowed all of the ease to go into the dart:
My immediate thoughts are that that dart is freaking massive!! hehe. The Darling Ranges already starts off with a large dart, that increases in size for large sizes to somewhat accomodate for larger cup sizes – so this dart may be way too big. However, I do like the fact that it’s maintained the waistline, and at first glance the finished pattern doesn’t look too dissimilar to our final traditional FBA
Then since I was testing some ideas out, I decided to also plot out a “quickie” adjustment I’ve often done in the past when I fit across more than one size. That is, cutting a different size for the bust and waist, and then blending at the seamline.
First thing I did was to make the dart by folding the pattern paper
I decided to use the example of and XL bust and M waistline – so drew a line between those points as my new side seam – then I cut along that line
Initial reaction? That’s a weird looking pattern. (Even weirder because halfway through I realised I should have done a size L bust and size S waist to keep all my examples consistent so i redid it – i’m sorry, please forgive this inconsistency!). From looking at it i wouldn’t think that would work – but truth be told, i’ve used this little quickie method for myself a number of times on other patterns with success. So I know in some circumstances it works – but whether it is best in this one is left to be seen.
Sooo after all that, I thought, let’s put all these adjustments on the computer and compare them. (I did my best to line up the front of the pattern and the necklines, since those are the parts of the pattern that don’t change, but my vector drawings aren’t perfect)
Interesting right? Here’s what I’m thinking – and I’d really love to hear what you all think too.
- Cutting 2 different sizes is clearly not accurate, since we’re not changing the size of the dart at all – so i’m gonna say that one is a no no
- As was noted before, the traditional FBA is resulting in a wider waistline – so we would need to take the pattern in at the waistline and redraw the seamline.
- Assuming we removed that excess in the waistline and redraw the seamline below the bust – the traditional FBA and my proposed FBA aren’t too different. I have to admit – I’m intrigued. Obviously the dart is larger in the alternate FBA, since the fullness from the waistline had to go somewhere else, and that somewhere else was the dart.