This is a last minute addition – but as I was making my samples for the sewalong I realised this might be an interesting and super easy variation.
As people have been making their Darling Ranges dresses I’ve noticed a couple have been leaving off the ties at the back so they can more easily belt the dress. The downside, is that the dress is designed to be used with ties, so it was created with a lot of easy in the back – which means leaving out the ties can result in a less fitted – bordering on baggy – dress.
So i thought why not show you all how to add darts to the back of your dress to make it more fitted if you decide to leave off the ties? Awesome right? I think so.
Please keep in mind that the exact measurements and position of the dart i show here can’t be taken too literally. The specifics will probably differ for different sizes and body shapes – so this like anything, is intended as a guide. Those closer to the higher end of their size bracket will need to smaller darts – those closer to the lower end of their size bracket will need larger darts. Each dart will probably be somewhere between 1-2 inches wide at the base.
The first thing you want to do is consult the finished garment measurements on the back of your envelope or instruction booklet. Take the finished waistline measurement and minus your body waistline measurement. This is how much ease is built into the pattern. I decided I wanted my dress snug around the waist, so I eliminated all but 1/2″ of ease. I wear a size Small and have a 28″ waist – so for me that left 2″ of extra ease that needed to be eliminated with darts – two 1″ darts at the waistline.
I placed the first dart leg 2.5″ from the centre back of my pattern, and extended up so that my finished dart would be 6″ long.
Add extra pattern paper
Fold the dart, and true the waistline by trimming in a straight line
And here is your final pattern piece with the back dart!
- Don’t forget that this dart placement is based on my body and personal preferences. You may not like darts as long as this and also for sizes larger than S you will more than likely want to place your dart further along towards the side seam.
- Also, please keep in mind that this method is only intended for the Darling Ranges, since it has so much ease built into the back piece – if you are wanting to add darts to a different pattern, you will need to slash and spread your pattern to add in the dart.