I know the placket may seem daunting – but I promise if you take it slowly and carefully it will all make sense and work out beautifully!
I love this method for creating the placket and neckline together, as I think it results in a really neat and fluid line of sewing.
Alrightly, lets get started!
First things first – turn your iron on and get a ruler out. Using an iron for these steps, and measuring is imperative. Now that we have our bodice and our skirt joined, Fold 1/2″ of the placket inwards along the line indicated on the pattern and press flat.
Take your single fold bias tape, and iron one of the folds flat. After you’ve ironed it should look like the piece on the left in the picture above.
Now (and this may seem counter-intuitive, but trust me, just go with it) turn/fold the placket the other way along the line indicated on the pattern (1 1/4″ from your first folded edge) so that the right sides are facing each other. Pin the placket along the neckline.
Begin pinning the bias tape to the neckline with the right side of the bias tape facing downward – do so all the way around the neckline.
Sew 1/4″ from the raw edge around the neckline (it should be in the “gutter” of the bias fold you just ironed flat before).
Fold the bias tape and the plackets inwards (towards the wrong side of the garment) so that you are enclosing all the raw edges. The placket should be folded along the line indicated on the pattern, all the way down to the hem (or 1 1/4″ wide). Press the placket and neckline and then pin.
Topstitch just under 1/4″ from the edge of the placket and the bias tape all the way around the neckline and the placket. I like to start at the hem on one side, sew all the way up the placket, then around the neckline, and then down the placket on the other side.
Press with your iron again – Then take a deep breath, because now you’re done!
- If you have a very loose fabric you might need to staystitch the neckline before you begin to prevent it from stretching out and “gaping” later on.
- Additionally, if you have a loose fabric and are worried the buttonholes may be unstable, you may consider interfacing the placket before you begin.
- If you’re feeling a little brave, and don’t want the standard neckline, think about doing a version of Kelli’s neckline from the other day - her tie front was really gorgeous!
- At this point you could also add another decorative touch that I’m a fan of – running a line of lace along the topstitching line all the way around the placket and neckline. I did this for a button front maternity dress for my friend Jen, and for this dress i wore to my Sister in Laws wedding (which is actually just a sleeveless Darling Ranges dress with a rounded neckline rather than a V neck).