Darling Ranges dress sewalong: constructing the bodice

April 9th, 2012

Hey hey time to do some sewing!

Today we’re putting the bodice together – nothing too strenuous! We’ll be sewing the darts, and the side and shoulder seams.

Ready set go!

I know sometimes transferring a dart from the pattern to the fabric can be a pain. I’m sure there are lots of great methods – but here is my favourite.

I start with my awl, a piece of thick cardboard and the pattern – and i make a nice big hole in the tip of the dart.

Then I lay the pattern over the cut fabric, and pop a pin through the hole i just made, and more marker pins at the end of the dart legs.

Fold the dart in half along the fold line, match up the dart legs, and repin. Then sew! Press those darts down.

~ Another method i used to use was to cut along the dart legs (on the paper pattern only!) and then draw them on the fabric with tailors chalk through the pattern. Anyone have an alternate method? I’d love to hear it!

If you decided to add darts to your back bodice piece using last weeks tutorial, then construct them in the same method as you did for the side darts, then press. Don’t forget, you don’t need to add darts to the back as we’re going to be adding ties later, it’s just an optional extra.

Now attaching the front and back pieces should be relatively straight forward.

Lay your back piece with right sides facing upwards, lay your front bodice pieces with right sides facing downwards, match up the side and shoulder seams and sew!

Lastly, don’t forget to neaten your raw edges and then press your seams. If you neatened each edge separately, then press your seams open. If you used say a serger/overlocker to neaten each seam in one go, then press your seams to the back of the dress.

See you tomorrow to tackle the skirt & pockets!

5 Responses

  1. molly bermea says:

    ah! I haven’t even had a chance to pick out my dummy fabric (muslim) yet. lol life has been a little hectic. I was and still am super happy about the sew-along though. I am excited to be able to reference these posts…. maybe I’ll be better prepared next time.

    It’s hard with work and the kids to fit in sewing, plus holiday and birthdays this month. But I AM determined to sew a couple of these (if I like the fit) in variations for the summer. DETERMINED. Megan I have to say that your newsletters, the artwork, the pattern packet (wow!) and instruction booklet are my fast favorite for inspirational sewing. Between you and Colette Sewing…

    Thanks for so much inspiration and hardcore detail instruction. :) It makes a non-pattern-sewer like me feel more confident. I’m usually just making things up. ;) I am determined to be able to properly use a pattern. lol

    So thanks times 10! – molly

    • Meg says:

      Molly you are so welcome!! I’m so glad you are finding the tutorials helpful! I totally understand the crazyness of trying to fit in sewing time with kids :) hehe it’s the story of my life! The good news is the tutorials will still be here when you get a chance to sew! XOXO

  2. Clarissa says:

    Feeling so sad. The end of my school semester is proving too difficult to add a sew a long into the mix. Looking forward to the end of the month when I can sew again.

    • Meg says:

      Don’t worry Clarissa! The posts will still be here at the end of the month – so you can go through them at your leisure :) I hope everything goes well with the rest of the school term! xoxo

  3. Laurie says:

    Received my pattern this week and I am so excited to get going with this dress! I bought some beautiful silk (which I’ve never worked with before) to use but have started with a toile first. All this weekend ive been trying to change the darts into princess seams that extend from the arm scythe down to the bottom of the bodice. So far it seems that I’ve changed the shape of the lower bodice in the process of absorbing the dart and redrafting the seam. Do you have any advice for making this change? I’ve never done anything like this before so I’m a bit out of my depth. :)

    Thanks for the opportunity to sew-along!

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